Caliper temps?

[}{arlequin]

Has anyone documented their front caliper average operating temps? What's the range? Did you use stickers or a meter?

[KobaltBlau]

I measured transmission case temps with a sticker. I don't know the range on calipers, though depending on your brakes the boiling point of Ate Blue might be a good starting point The "real" way I think would be to get some temp. indicator paint from mcmaster-carr or other source, though maybe an IR thermometer would give decent results, or at least give you a baseline so you know what range paint to buy.

[}{arlequin]

well, using the fluid's boiling point is a damn good idea, thanks.

what I intend to do is throw some Carrera stuff on the front. I would like to paint the calipers with that nice, hardening, smooth paint for ease of cleanup and maintenance but someone posted a thought that other than OEM Brembo, that paint may actually RETAIN more heat in the caliper. That may be true and I thought I may do more harm than good by painting the calipers that maybe weren't ever designed with that paint in mind.

I have one or maybe 2 more track weekends before I swap to the Carrera setup, so what I want to do is paint one of my current front (M) calipers with the paint and leave one as is, then throw the stickers on both of them and compare the temps left-to-right. That way I won't be potentially ruining brand new Carrera goods but it shoud still give me an indication of what the paint does to the caliper.

[buster73]

Typical recommendation is that the average caliper temperatures should be below 390 F (200 C) and peak temperatures should not exceed 460 F (240 C). Otherwise you can damage the rubber seals. You can use high temp seals which might give you another 20 C.

[Bill Verburg]

The caliper manufacturers actually recommend a fairly low max temp. for instance Brembo seals are only rated to 360F(~182C) max, AP rates theirs 240C max

But its a non linear time @ temp relation, if 240C is the max 1 hr @200C will be just as bad.

When tracked even the best need to be regularkly inspected and rebuilt.

temp paints are available from Pegasus Racing or Essex Racing

[KobaltBlau]

why don't you just skip painting the new calipers? I mean, you'll hardly see 'em. Also, SC type fronts are probably enough for your car with good air ducting, and the rotors are lighter. Just something to think about.

[}{arlequin]

Since I'm putting on brand new, clean calipers, I'd like to be able to keep them that way. It's much easier to do w/ that shiny, slick paint. You'll never see the 964-onwards calipers look as dingy as the pre-964 versions. I think the easy-to-clean finish has a lot to do with it. I'm fairly detail oriented and particular, esp. about brakes. Of course, if the paint is detrimental, the idea is out the window.

I don't think the SC brakes would be enough either, since I have M's all around and I was getting a spongy pedal by the 2nd session. SC has the same rotor therefore the same problem. These are Carrera rotors/calipers and I hope that will address my problems adeqately.

[KobaltBlau]

do you have sealed ducts plumbed from your front air dam to your rotor centers, with hub block-off plates?

[}{arlequin]

that was the next logical step.... I had some "home made" and they didn't pan out very well... the next step on the $$ scale is to take them off and try the 993 scoops to see if they make a difference

I'm not saying the hub centric air feed doesn't work, I'm sure it does, but my home made set didn't survive a 3 day weekend... guess I have to spend some $$ for the ready made set.... the block off plates are in good shape though...

either way, I'm heading in the Carrera brake direction no matter what (I'm one strut housing short of a set) but before then, I thought I'd experiment and see what gives the most air per buck.

here's what failed (too flexy)