Introducing: Team Williams
 

I’ve finally made some progress toward getting back out on the track. I’ve been prepping a ’81 911SC w/ a 3.2 to run in POC JP, PCA IP (I think). TRE is taking care of prepping the Engine and Trans, and all the suspension will be Elephant Racing.

Here’s where I’m at and my goal is to have it wrung out by the end of April. I won’t bomb you w/ all the in-progress pics yet, unless somebody wants to see something in particular.

From this...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201125888.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201125929.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201125959.jpg

To This...


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201126006.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201126031.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201126062.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201126083.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201126343.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201126185.jpg

Looks good! Keep the photos coming, I'd like to see more! What gauges did you install in the radio space, and the pull handles are what, fire and electric disconnect? Who supplied the front bumper spoiler? Suspension bits look too nice to install!

DAMN!!!

Ryan, you really know how to do things right. Hope to see you out and about this year. Keep us updated on the progress.

I aspire to do the same this winter, new suspension all around but lordy this stuff is spendy. Nice collection of go fast parts! I am envious.

WOW! Where did that car come from. Are you hording Porsches:)

Thanks guys, it's been a slow project but I'm finally gaining momentum. My wife is ready to have the spare bedroom back so it's time to get these parts dirty. Here's the short list...

Elephant Racing (& Taret) Suspension:
23/31 T-bars
22/22 Adjustable Anti-Roll Bars
Custom Valved Bilstiens
Raised Spindles
De-Cambered Ball Joints
Offset Camber Plates
PolyBronze
Adjustable Bump Steer Tie Rods
Triangulated Strut Brace
Rear Monoballs
QuickChange Splined Hub

Engine/Trans:
Basic Track Prep stock 3.2 rebuild w/ the free upgrades and reliability/strengthening upgrades
WEVO gate shift & LSD are the biggies for the Trans

Chassis:
TRE Roll bar, eventually to become a cage
TRE front and rear narrow IROC bumpers
Recaro PolePositions w/ Schroth 6-points
Still waiting on Lindsey P2 8x9x17 RSR
Front cooler in series w/ Carrera cooler

The guages where the radio was are CHT and Volt gauges, and the handles are fire and cut-off.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201155497.jpg

There's also a small Halon bottle for when you don't want to eat foam.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201155593.jpg

And lot's of little details...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201156999.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201157204.jpg

Great work! Is that POR15 in the engine compartment?

Naw, I didn't strip it down to the metal so I just used a tough enamel that was recommended by a local auto paint supplier. For the welded areas I used Wurth Rust Guard.

She will also be sporting an IROC tail. Someday I'll give her the body work to complete the look.

Wow. That's a lot of stuff!

Since somebody asked about the gauges......... I have the same ones. The CHT gauge is pretty nice and i'm please with it. It gets its signal from a thermocouple that you attach to the spark plug of your choice. Basically it's a washer with a wire connected to it. Point being, it's an easy install that doesn't require drilling your head.

I'd not recommend the voltmeter though. It's movement is too damped and it doesn't respond quickly enough to be able to use it effectively. I'm sure this is done on purpose to keep the needle from wiggling. All the other gauges in the car flutter, so this one should too! :D So i'd look for a different volt gauge.

What's the background on the oil cooler mounting- TRE creativity?? That's a pretty slick setup!

What kind of LSD? Rebuilt ZF or Guard?

Thanks for the info on the voltmeter, I'll see what happens. I installed it more for a view of overall alternator and battery health rather than exact numbers and any given moment. That and I wanted to fill the space. :)

The trans will have a Guard LSD, and it's staying w/ stock gears for now (I hope that I don't regret that.)

As for the boat anchor up front; that’s my little invention (TRE only does light weight stuff. ;) ) I have a weight problem, too little weight that is, because I need to make weight for POC Prepared class. I figured that over engineering some things that can be easily scaled down latter in higher classes.

I built ducting into the oil cooler screen to keep air from bypassing the cooler. The Setrab -150 is a bit small for the opening in the bumper but in series w/ the Carrera cooler it should provide plenty of cooling. To do again I would get a -172 though. I also built it so that nothing has to come off to get the bumper on and off. Just four bolts, disconnect the lights, release the three Airloc fasteners on top and it’s off.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201289687.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201289699.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201289716.jpg

I agree the voltmeter is typically used for general view of battery health. It's just too slow to show, for instance, if you've got a failing voltage regulator. By the time mine was bad enough, it's spikes were very extreme and noticeable on the meter. I was able to easily confirm my bad regulator by turning on the headlights- blew the expensive 80W/100W bulbs on my headlights! :)

If gears are allowed and you can afford, you should consider it. One of the big issues I have with my car (it's different G50.01 gearing) is 2nd and 3rd gear. Shortening everything up can make the car much more flexible. I bet you never use 1st or 5th on your tracks, do you? So it's basically a 3 speed trans. Basic shortening can put together a 2nd-5th set that suits many tracks.

I'm jealous you're getting a Guard. What a difference you should see vs. open diff. For a true racing environment, one would be foolish to be without LSD.

Very nice creation with the oil cooler screent and duct bracketing. Looks quite "pro." Do you have any rubber isolators for the oil cooler? I believe it's recommended to buffer them from vibration?

Tip for saving some space = remove the two trumpet horn and put there the tiny puck horn from the factory alarm system. Sounds sissy, but who uses horns much on the track anyway?

I like the things you've done and it inspires me for me RS fiberglass bumper adventure coming soon.

Since you're such a master bracketer, what kind of seat you got there and how's it mounted? I'm planning on a Cobra Imola.

There is rubber between the cooler and the mount, not much but hopefully enough. The screen doesn't mount to it at all, it just kind of floats around it.

Big Willow is a fast track; 3rd-5th in my other car, same gears, although I only see 5th for short periods. Streets of Willow is more 2-4. It became a cost issue though; gotta draw the line somewhere.

I don't know why I even have the horns still. The only time it will see the street is driving to the track and the occasional canyon, at least until I get a trailer.

The TRE fiberglass was top-notch. Well designed, sstrong, and great fit.

I've seen a lot neat seat mount designs but I never could understand why the complex setups. There really isn't much to the stock mounts so it doesn't take much to make a stronger setup. So I went KISS, and used 1.5" angle stock for the mounts welded to the inner rockers and tunnel. I drilled holes in the vertical surface for more welding surface area. Mounted on them are Recarro Pole Positions w/ Recarro mount brackets and sliders. I needed the sliders for my little brother, who is about 4" taller than me.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201337131.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201337170.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201337192.jpg

Ryan, sweet man! Beautiful work!

Is it fairly standard for Dave to convert his roll bars into full cages? I have his RS-style bar and was thinking cage at some point as well.

Hope so see you guys at some events in the very near future.....if can afford to keep the Porsche after buying a house in CA :)

Hey Brad! Thanks.

Converting roll bars to cages is something that has always been a custom thing for TRE, but Dave is working on finalizing a design that he can sell as a kit to do it; not sure about the RS (RSR) bar though. I think that he used Todd's car for the design and I'm pretty sure that he has the Clubsport II; that's the bar I have too.

Good luck finding your way back home, I look forward to getting together sometime. Cheers!

A little suspension work.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201661501.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201661518.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201661538.jpg

Looking good Ryan.

What's your opinion on the quick change, quick adjust spring plates? They look like a nice improvement upon the Sway A Way adj. spring plates and seem like an affordable alternative to either the top level Elephant plates or the Wevo. I have the CamberMax widgets and think they're a neat alternative to the pesky eccentric bolt adjustment.

What's the class rules allow for brakes? Reason I ask is because i'm surprised you didn't opt for Carrera calipers and rotors up front- or maybe they are, but those look like they could be the narrow SC vented rotors.

Since I have a 3.2 in it, I could go w/ Carrera brakes. My experience w/ well sorted SC brakes has been very good and I just could see throwing money at a relatively small upgrade. Although I could probably pick up Carrera set pretty cheap.

The QuickChange™ Splined Hub kit is beautiful. I don't know if I'll use the quick change part much but just the ease of set-up and adjustment is worth it. If you already have factory adjustable spring plates you only need the Splined Hub Kit that goes w/ your factory plates.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201709757.jpg

Ryan,

Nice work, looks like it will be a fun car when you are done.

I mounted my 172 cooler in a similar way (with a tad bit more rubber isolation) but I think yours will work great.

Keep the pics comming, but slow down a little, you are making my look like a snail... :)

Cheers

I hear what you're saying about the brakes. Still, I think it's a worthwhile upgrade at the front since you'd be hard-pressed to find an easier way to gain additional braking performance for a small cost. I'd not bother with the rear hassle of installing the pressure limiting valve to use with the Carrera calipers and thicker rotors.

>Carrera front rotors only cost $30 more ea. than SC rotors.
>Carrera calipers can be had used pretty easily and you'd resell SC calipers. Net caliper cost = $100-$150?
>Rear Carrera rotors are a bit more expensive in general and i'd not bother with it since the fronts are the workhorses.

Thanks for the feedback on the spring plates. The factory eccentric and sandwich bolt is kind of a pain to adjust- if you dont' have someone to hold the thin wrench while tightening the big nut.

Thanks Jeff.

Kevin, great points, I wish I would have thought of those. I'll put front Carrera brakes on the future upgrades short list. I'll probably run the way it is for a year or when I can out drive them, which ever comes first.

Added a couple things to the dash; the hour meter is wired into the fuel pump off of the DME relay, so it only counts when the engine is running.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1201939990.jpg

My car was indeed the test mule for the cage. I need to pull the padding and paint it, so maybe I can get to that this weekend if the weather holds and I'll take a bunch of pics. It make a big difference wrt peace of mind having a cage over a bar. The only thing that I need to do is swap to a removable steering wheel as it is a little tough getting in and out.

Maybe you could get one of the nice volt/cht combo gauges that replaces the clock?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/390669-woo-hoo-here-replace-you-clock.html

Then you can put the hourmeter in your radio delete location. Not that there's anything wrong with the hourmeter location now, and I like the idea of the hourmeter.

I put my HotLap timer on the lid of the glovebox, somewhat out of view. One of the DE admin./tech. people gave me a nod for doing that since the location makes it less likely to check on your times while you're driving. Plus I couldn't put my timer where yours is because of my choice for locating my gauges.

Please don't think i'm being critical of anything you've done. Your car is set up great and i'm just relaying how I did some things so others can consider different ways of doing things.

Maybe you could get one of the nice volt/cht combo gauges that replaces the clock?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=390669

Then you can put the hourmeter in your radio delete location. Not that there's anything wrong with the hourmeter location now, and I like the idea of the hourmeter.

I put my HotLap timer on the lid of the glovebox, somewhat out of view. One of the DE admin./tech. people gave me a nod for doing that since the location makes it less likely to check on your times while you're driving. Plus I couldn't put my timer where yours is because of my choice for locating my gauges.

Please don't think i'm being critical of anything you've done. Your car is set up great and i'm just relaying how I did some things so others can consider different ways of doing things.

No worries Kevin, I like the feedback very much. There are a hundred ways to skin this cat.

I'm going to keep the clock, at least until the clock in one of the other cars breaks. I thought that the space next to the hour meter would be a great spot for lights for a poor-mans datalogger, right where a camera could see them.

There is a bracket on the back side of the Hotlap display so it will come off and the ashtray can go in it's place; for those weekend runs.

Im finishing mounting my bumpers and thought i'd check back with how Ryan did the oil cooler. I must say, that oil cooler install is VERY impressive the more I look at it. GREAT job dude!!!

I can't remember if you said that screen for the front bumper a TRE screen? That is very nice too.

I helped install a pre-fabbed Setrab on a 3.6 conversion, and I can't seem to find the cooler that was used. Maybe it's an old model that's been discontinued?

http://www.gruppeb.org/users/upload/...-installed.jpg

http://www.gruppeb.org/users/upload/...r-fittings.jpg

I think i'll plan for the -172 cooler and then I can eliminate the Carrera cooler. The Carrera cooler is nice, but I don't think it can be effective in it's location with the IROC style bumper. There's no opening to get substantial air to the cooler, no? I suppose a headlight could be removed, or one of the brake duct openings could be used to get air to the cooler...... Right now I have the factory cooling fan on my cooler and I can manually turn it on with the fog light switch. So that will suffice for the time being. But i'd certainly like to take advantage of the center opening in the IROC style bumper.

What brand of hose do you have for your cooler lines? I was planning to use push-on hose with barbed fittings and clamps. Looks like yours are crimp fittings.

I finally have made progress and have put an update on the Tech Forum. I thought that some of you might like to check it out and I always welcome feedback. Thanks!

Team Williams Update