Introducing: Team Williams

[surflvr911sc]

I’ve finally made some progress toward getting back out on the track. I’ve been prepping a ’81 911SC w/ a 3.2 to run in POC JP, PCA IP (I think). TRE is taking care of prepping the Engine and Trans, and all the suspension will be Elephant Racing.

Here’s where I’m at and my goal is to have it wrung out by the end of April. I won’t bomb you w/ all the in-progress pics yet, unless somebody wants to see something in particular.

From this...








To This...

[David 23]

Looks good! Keep the photos coming, I'd like to see more! What gauges did you install in the radio space, and the pull handles are what, fire and electric disconnect? Who supplied the front bumper spoiler? Suspension bits look too nice to install!

[DByers]

DAMN!!!

Ryan, you really know how to do things right. Hope to see you out and about this year. Keep us updated on the progress.

[zotman72]

I aspire to do the same this winter, new suspension all around but lordy this stuff is spendy. Nice collection of go fast parts! I am envious.

WOW! Where did that car come from. Are you hording Porsches

[surflvr911sc]

Thanks guys, it's been a slow project but I'm finally gaining momentum. My wife is ready to have the spare bedroom back so it's time to get these parts dirty. Here's the short list...

Elephant Racing (& Taret) Suspension:
23/31 T-bars
22/22 Adjustable Anti-Roll Bars
Custom Valved Bilstiens
Raised Spindles
De-Cambered Ball Joints
Offset Camber Plates
PolyBronze
Adjustable Bump Steer Tie Rods
Triangulated Strut Brace
Rear Monoballs
QuickChange Splined Hub

Engine/Trans:
Basic Track Prep stock 3.2 rebuild w/ the free upgrades and reliability/strengthening upgrades
WEVO gate shift & LSD are the biggies for the Trans

Chassis:
TRE Roll bar, eventually to become a cage
TRE front and rear narrow IROC bumpers
Recaro PolePositions w/ Schroth 6-points
Still waiting on Lindsey P2 8x9x17 RSR
Front cooler in series w/ Carrera cooler

The guages where the radio was are CHT and Volt gauges, and the handles are fire and cut-off.



There's also a small Halon bottle for when you don't want to eat foam.

[surflvr911sc]

And lot's of little details...

[BlueSideUp]

Great work! Is that POR15 in the engine compartment?

[surflvr911sc]

Naw, I didn't strip it down to the metal so I just used a tough enamel that was recommended by a local auto paint supplier. For the welded areas I used Wurth Rust Guard.

She will also be sporting an IROC tail. Someday I'll give her the body work to complete the look.

[KTL]

Wow. That's a lot of stuff!

Since somebody asked about the gauges......... I have the same ones. The CHT gauge is pretty nice and i'm please with it. It gets its signal from a thermocouple that you attach to the spark plug of your choice. Basically it's a washer with a wire connected to it. Point being, it's an easy install that doesn't require drilling your head.

I'd not recommend the voltmeter though. It's movement is too damped and it doesn't respond quickly enough to be able to use it effectively. I'm sure this is done on purpose to keep the needle from wiggling. All the other gauges in the car flutter, so this one should too! So i'd look for a different volt gauge.

What's the background on the oil cooler mounting- TRE creativity?? That's a pretty slick setup!

What kind of LSD? Rebuilt ZF or Guard?

[surflvr911sc]

Thanks for the info on the voltmeter, I'll see what happens. I installed it more for a view of overall alternator and battery health rather than exact numbers and any given moment. That and I wanted to fill the space.

The trans will have a Guard LSD, and it's staying w/ stock gears for now (I hope that I don't regret that.)

As for the boat anchor up front; that’s my little invention (TRE only does light weight stuff. ) I have a weight problem, too little weight that is, because I need to make weight for POC Prepared class. I figured that over engineering some things that can be easily scaled down latter in higher classes.

I built ducting into the oil cooler screen to keep air from bypassing the cooler. The Setrab -150 is a bit small for the opening in the bumper but in series w/ the Carrera cooler it should provide plenty of cooling. To do again I would get a -172 though. I also built it so that nothing has to come off to get the bumper on and off. Just four bolts, disconnect the lights, release the three Airloc fasteners on top and it’s off.

[KTL]

I agree the voltmeter is typically used for general view of battery health. It's just too slow to show, for instance, if you've got a failing voltage regulator. By the time mine was bad enough, it's spikes were very extreme and noticeable on the meter. I was able to easily confirm my bad regulator by turning on the headlights- blew the expensive 80W/100W bulbs on my headlights!

If gears are allowed and you can afford, you should consider it. One of the big issues I have with my car (it's different G50.01 gearing) is 2nd and 3rd gear. Shortening everything up can make the car much more flexible. I bet you never use 1st or 5th on your tracks, do you? So it's basically a 3 speed trans. Basic shortening can put together a 2nd-5th set that suits many tracks.

I'm jealous you're getting a Guard. What a difference you should see vs. open diff. For a true racing environment, one would be foolish to be without LSD.

Very nice creation with the oil cooler screent and duct bracketing. Looks quite "pro." Do you have any rubber isolators for the oil cooler? I believe it's recommended to buffer them from vibration?

Tip for saving some space = remove the two trumpet horn and put there the tiny puck horn from the factory alarm system. Sounds sissy, but who uses horns much on the track anyway?

I like the things you've done and it inspires me for me RS fiberglass bumper adventure coming soon.

Since you're such a master bracketer, what kind of seat you got there and how's it mounted? I'm planning on a Cobra Imola.

[surflvr911sc]

There is rubber between the cooler and the mount, not much but hopefully enough. The screen doesn't mount to it at all, it just kind of floats around it.

Big Willow is a fast track; 3rd-5th in my other car, same gears, although I only see 5th for short periods. Streets of Willow is more 2-4. It became a cost issue though; gotta draw the line somewhere.

I don't know why I even have the horns still. The only time it will see the street is driving to the track and the occasional canyon, at least until I get a trailer.

The TRE fiberglass was top-notch. Well designed, sstrong, and great fit.

I've seen a lot neat seat mount designs but I never could understand why the complex setups. There really isn't much to the stock mounts so it doesn't take much to make a stronger setup. So I went KISS, and used 1.5" angle stock for the mounts welded to the inner rockers and tunnel. I drilled holes in the vertical surface for more welding surface area. Mounted on them are Recarro Pole Positions w/ Recarro mount brackets and sliders. I needed the sliders for my little brother, who is about 4" taller than me.

[Vipergrün]

Ryan, sweet man! Beautiful work!

Is it fairly standard for Dave to convert his roll bars into full cages? I have his RS-style bar and was thinking cage at some point as well.

Hope so see you guys at some events in the very near future.....if can afford to keep the Porsche after buying a house in CA

[surflvr911sc]

Hey Brad! Thanks.

Converting roll bars to cages is something that has always been a custom thing for TRE, but Dave is working on finalizing a design that he can sell as a kit to do it; not sure about the RS (RSR) bar though. I think that he used Todd's car for the design and I'm pretty sure that he has the Clubsport II; that's the bar I have too.

Good luck finding your way back home, I look forward to getting together sometime. Cheers!

[surflvr911sc]

A little suspension work.

[KTL]

Looking good Ryan.

What's your opinion on the quick change, quick adjust spring plates? They look like a nice improvement upon the Sway A Way adj. spring plates and seem like an affordable alternative to either the top level Elephant plates or the Wevo. I have the CamberMax widgets and think they're a neat alternative to the pesky eccentric bolt adjustment.

What's the class rules allow for brakes? Reason I ask is because i'm surprised you didn't opt for Carrera calipers and rotors up front- or maybe they are, but those look like they could be the narrow SC vented rotors.

[surflvr911sc]

Since I have a 3.2 in it, I could go w/ Carrera brakes. My experience w/ well sorted SC brakes has been very good and I just could see throwing money at a relatively small upgrade. Although I could probably pick up Carrera set pretty cheap.

The QuickChange™ Splined Hub kit is beautiful. I don't know if I'll use the quick change part much but just the ease of set-up and adjustment is worth it. If you already have factory adjustable spring plates you only need the Splined Hub Kit that goes w/ your factory plates.

[Jeff Alton]

Ryan,

Nice work, looks like it will be a fun car when you are done.

I mounted my 172 cooler in a similar way (with a tad bit more rubber isolation) but I think yours will work great.

Keep the pics comming, but slow down a little, you are making my look like a snail...

Cheers

[KTL]

I hear what you're saying about the brakes. Still, I think it's a worthwhile upgrade at the front since you'd be hard-pressed to find an easier way to gain additional braking performance for a small cost. I'd not bother with the rear hassle of installing the pressure limiting valve to use with the Carrera calipers and thicker rotors.

>Carrera front rotors only cost $30 more ea. than SC rotors.
>Carrera calipers can be had used pretty easily and you'd resell SC calipers. Net caliper cost = $100-$150?
>Rear Carrera rotors are a bit more expensive in general and i'd not bother with it since the fronts are the workhorses.

Thanks for the feedback on the spring plates. The factory eccentric and sandwich bolt is kind of a pain to adjust- if you dont' have someone to hold the thin wrench while tightening the big nut.