Sweet. This build makes me wanna move forward with my plans to slip an LS1 into my VW Rabbit.

wj

Call me cranky, but this is a technical forum, and all the one or two line post-padding is clogging up a good thread. "Awesome", or "subscribed", doesn't add anything to the discussion. I'm all for being witty or positive and encouraging, but it's getting kind of silly around here.

Back on topic. Are you getting the modified gauges through Scott?

To clarify, JackMan wants to put a V8 in the back seat of his already tricked-out VW Cabrio. Seriously. Think Renault R5 Turbo...convertible.

Sounds like a LOT of work to change a 4 cyl front-engine FWD car into a V8 mid-engine RWD car. But it would be way cool!

Ok, you're cranky!:D No offense, but coming in here with 21 posts and being critical of how this forum and specifically this thread is forming seems a bit much.

Nice build, it will be interesting to see the finished product!

Bigger is not always better, the stock LS1 intake is a better fit and can be reversed with no problem. I had went with the larger intake and throttle body and had a very tight fit. This was solved with a little cutting and a hammer to flatten down the edge.

If I could do it over I would have purchased an LS6 intake. Equal gains in HP to the Typhoon and would probably fit 10X better

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236563220.jpg

The hardest part is picking up where I leave off. This is another reason for me posting this build is to get feedback and suggestions on the cooling system. I have had a couple of Ideas and fellow Pelicans are already scratching there heads and providing valuable input.

Good new is I may need to return to Florida in April so maybe I can get the project finished up then.

I am using the sender units from RH to tie into the factory gauges and as a backup plan I have bought a 4-in-1 gauge for the tach that includes a second set of sender units. It fit perfectly into the stock location and looks pretty sexy :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236564046.jpg

cool project

Couple of thoughts have been running thru my mind about how to do the coolant lines to the radiator. Although I think the current setup will work the idea of the trunk lid opening and closing over time will develop a weak line and it is possible that it will leak.

Has anyone ever used or worked with -16AN or -20AN Fiber braided lines? I am curious to know how flexible they are? I see several of these NASCAR braided lines being sold on Fleabay for pretty cheap and was thinking they may out last my current idea. Plus I could have the fittings welded to the radiator and not have to use hose clamps :)

Second thought was if these lines could be used would -16AN be able to flow enough coolant thru the radiator effectively? I imagine -20AN lines would be no problem but are probably less flexible.

Anyway, interested to hear some feedback on this idea.

Here are some pics and link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NASCAR-XRP-fiber-Braided-Dry-Sump-Oil-Line-Hydraflow_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c 66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7 c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhas hZitem180334075846QQitemZ180334075846QQptZRaceQ5fC arQ5fParts

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236687470.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236687488.jpg

Very intrigueing project. I am most intrigued by the extra hood shock could you give details on this, mounting location, part number for shock used, ETC. Contact speedo about the braided hose he used it for his oil system.

This looks to be a well thought out build, but I have a real concern over that radiator set up. Specifically, won't having the radiator on it's side induce a substantial amount of air into the system unless you can come up with some means of removing all the air out of the radiator? Seems like you will have to have a high point in the system with a bleed valve to prevent this.

is there such a thing as a dry sump sb chevy?

There are a ton of aftermarket dry sump setups out there for sbc race motors. The only factory GM dry sump motor that I am aware of is the C6 Z06.

yes dry sumps have been around on the sbc for years...but as someone who has had a converted car for years..alot ot these ideas are just things in the way. my oil cooler is mounted in the passengenger backseat area suitably enclosed and vented to the underside of the car and is fed cooling air through two three inch naca ducts in the quarter panel popout window. my radiator is in the front. rubber hoses and a mezziere remote electric water pump are easy to install as well as the front mounted radiator. helps a bit with weight distribution, especially when running an all aluminum engine. i still think that a 930 gearbox is the way to go especially if you want 500 horsepower and then be able to use it...otherwise you end up with power but a bit timid about turning it on! my 71 rs lookalike has an all aluminum 434 sbc with mass flo efi and dynoed at almost 600 chp. the renegade hybrids radiator set up does work well. cannot imagine opening the engine compartment and sticking my head in underneath a 210 to 240 degree radiator!

This setup might require cutting out a bit of the crossmember or using the smaller TB. The engine is going to want to move around a little bit, unless its on solid mounts.

Good thought, however, with a movable radiator mount, you should be able to bleed it and fill with the deck lid open?

This is a cool project!
What is the weight delta between the v-8 and a 3.6 or 930 motor?

Doug

rh makes a 90 degree for this situation. not sure of flow potential especially with high horsepower.

Flexibility of AN lines depends on the material of the hose, the fabric or Kevlar hoses are generally more flexible than true stainless. Assuming the hoses you have now are the Cool Flex brand you should be ok. The AN solution may look a little cleaner and the hydraulic swivel idea is intriguing but Cool Flex hoses are high quality and very durable. You should be able to open the engine cover for years without issue.

Nice!---just a thought,---you might consider crossing the radiator hoses over,L-to R at the rad. You may have to use angle fittings ,out of the radiator but the extra hose length and the ,"across the bay",flow
may be less stressful on the hose bending? altho the hose might not like that much axial
movement but the swivel fittings would take care of that---Make sense?
Apologies for the Art work!

http://hl.onlinestuffs.com/uploads/o...h/cd/ae/rw.jpg

subscribed-

Exactly what I was thinking.

Have a bung welded into the side of the radiator like this, and you'll be able to bleed any trapped air easily. I'm wondering what you will do about an expansion tank, though.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236718625.jpg

No flames from me, to each man his own, I commend your challenge and work

Wow never thought of this and like the idea, when I return to the US I will have to take some measurements and moch up some hoses to see howstrain and flex is involved.

No apologies needed for the artwork, better than anything I can draw :)

BTW, what are you thoughts on -16AN lines? I think flexibility would be great but a little usure on the amount of flow.

Anyone with a front mount want to share what size lines are running from front to back? I would also think it is safe to assume that the distance from front to back would have more resistance due to the length of travel. When compared to my setup there will only be 24~44" before reaching the radiator so maybe -16AN could work

shorter is better, but at 24 to 44, you're pushing what a Corvette has, right? I'd size them the same as the vette.

Here are some more pictures of the rear radiator to help with the ideas.

I love the feedback I have been getting, keep it coming guys SmileWavy

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236729988.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236730010.jpg

Good Point, I would have to compare what an LS1 vette and Camaro have. Although my water pump is a 55 gph meziere electric pump this may be more flow than a stock water pump. My radiator is also smaller but with a thicker core and aluminum so all these will need to be factored in.

Yeah, with the lid down, that one hose will be pretty well kinked. The cross over idea is really good.

-20 is not incredibly stiff. I wouldn't think it is stiffer than what you show now and it doesn't have to be that flexible in the config shown in the above sketch.
Use heat shrink tubing where it will rub on the engine.

How can you get a cold air supply to feed the intake air (or did I miss this resolution)?

Are the fans push or pull? Seems like either has their drawbacks.

Doug

Just measured -16 fitting and hose diameters---actually the "16" is a bit of a misnomer. I think it comes from the outside diameter of aluminum tubing in AN sizes ,in sixteenths of an inch---but the flex hose and fittings are not that size.
I have Aeroquip 601 hose and the bore size is about 20/21 mm. the fittings bore size is 19mm or 3/4 inch.[ very close to Porsche factory oil line size.]
Seems a bit small to me ,for a V8 radiator size.

Doug, I plan on putting a 3.5" 90 degree at the intake and route it into the fender so that I am not drawing the hot air in the engine compartment. Regarding air direction I think pulling in the cool air from the outside and pushing it down over the engine will be the most effective. It will be trial-n-error by monitoring the temps and reversing the wiring. They will trigger thru the wiring harness

Ok, this is awesome!
More updates please.
I don't know why you keep going to Shanghai, but quit it!! Focus on this!!

:)

I am looking at Thermoid BellowsFlex "A" coolant hose. It has a nylon screen reinforcing with a helical wire, allowing great flex without collapse.

Haven't tried it yet but considering it. $13.20 per ft from www.go2marine.com.

Len

:)

hmm. well this is pretty amazing! but I would ask, won't this extra torque create more body flexing of the 911, and on a cabriolet wont that become a problem soon down thw line? will you have to stiffen the body or frame at all? I am really surprised thatthe LS1 engine is actually lighter than my 3.0?
Other than that, this is just really cool stuff to follow. I totally commend you all who do these cool major projects to the 911's. I wonder how much quicker the 0-60 time is? annd what is the actual total weight of the 911 compared to a Corvette LS1?

What about the line they use on a gas pump? And the swivel fittings. Just wondering....

Todd,

What are you going to do for ECU and harness? Have you got a factory GM set-up, or are you going in another direction? Just curious. Put one of these in a 71' El Camino. Getting the Ecu straight was a headache, but was sure worth the trouble. Can't imagine how that block will push your car. :eek:

subscribed

With the LS1 you loose the dry sump system, and if you go with a front radiator, then your weight balance is better than a stock 911. The LS1 is all aluminum, and doesn't have the cooling fan, shroud, fins and individual barrels of a 901 engine, all of which add weight.

I believe a 0-60 time in the low 4's is not out of reason.

I personally have my doubts about a 915 transmission holding up, but Scott says they do.

VERY interesting project... MAJOR kudoes for doing it yourself.... and not paying someone to complete it for you!!! Looking good

What would it cost to have someone else do it for you?

Todd...Are you a mechanic by any chance? I am working on a similar project SBC350 into 911S but I am a DYI guy. I am just amazed at how far you have gone in such a short time.

Just and idea on the radiator.

Why not build a bracket and mount it to the engine... Inter cooler style. It would be in the same position it is now but doesn't lift with the lid.

This may sounds stupid but you could open and close the lid with no issues to check oil etc. And lift the radiator when need to get to the coils and such. You could still use your flexible hoses that you already have. How often would you need to lift the radiator?... If you were careful in its design you could set it up so that you could change spark plugs without removing it.

It would look like some sort of inter cooler... (Mind you a very large one)