X2 This is the first thing that came to mind when I looked at your set up.

Me too, but it is very large compared to an intercooler I think. And it barely fits into the tail opening, so it might be really tight as the lid closes.

:)
Will there be enough air flow is the question.
The intercoolers rely on the air cooled fan drawing air thru, especially at low speeds. With this setup there is much less air flow.
I like the fitment but wonder if it will get the cooling it needs.
Len
:)

not only the flow through the radiator, but all the heat going onto the top of the engine and in particulat the intake system. i have a v8 car and you can trick yourself trying to be trick! i know...from experience. but, hopefully it will work for you..

I'm curious to see how well the radiator will cool laying flat like that. When upright, it has all that space to flow down to cool....now it just has a few inches. To me, it would be like the difference of a waterfall and a running stream. Just a thought but a very cool build nonetheless.

Inspiration for me to finish my projects. I have to pull my LS1 from the 944 due to a bottom end knock so I'm all for engine swaps ( 3 in total ). I would do it a bit different on my 930 if I were to start over, I would do a electric pump on relays to keep it running when I turn the engine off. Im interested in your raditator location. I like it but Im thinking too much heat coming off the engine will reduce the cooling effect. I also find on my one race car, I can turn off the electric fan when at speed because there is more air flow through the rad than what the fan would do on its own. With the location of your rad, I cant see enough natural air flow at speed over the rad to cool the engine. Excellent work, keep us posted.

Starting to see more of the LS1 stuff around, pretty neat. It's fun watching someone wrestle an LS1 944 around an autocross track. Great sound too. Subscribed.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/

This is a great site based on all those motors. Lots of good info there.

You have a PM!!!:)

With all the talk of the radiator, the engineering that is involved and the what-ifs, it seems like it might be a pretty good idea to just bite the bullet and mount it up front? Or like stated above, mount it to the top of engine, but that would be a hassle when it comes to work on it I guess. You can get so many different sizes of radiators/heat exchangers that you could pretty much install them almost any where. Maybe get two smaller units and put them up front, or in wheel wells, etc??? If you do go this route, you can then mount those fans or others to the deck lid and either push air through the engine and down or up and out as every little bit will help in the heat of Florida?

Just as a completely different option with more weight closer to the ground too, did you consider using the wheel wells as places for radiators? With a 993 body and no need for an oil tank you'd have room in both rear wells, and griffiths (http://www.griffiths.com/porsche/ac/911ac/index.html#Condensers) makes AC condensor kits with fans that use both the front and back of the left rear wheel well.

Adapting a similar design to your set up would allow you to have 4 small radiators if necessary. There would be a lot more connections to worry about, and the crossover from left to right would be a challenge if you needed more than 2 radiators, but it could be another option to consider. Another advantage might be leaving the top of the engine free to flow air through the deck lid to get more ambient cooling at the same time.

Excuse my ms paint "art", why not mount the radiator to the engine like a intercooler just like Porsche did with a little tweak. Mount it so you can move it as in the diagram to fill the radiator and work on the engine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237649039.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1237649229.jpg

What does the LS1 weigh with respect to the flat 6?

Did you consider one of the new direct injection aluminum V6's - same HP, less weight and less space???

A fully dressed 930 weighs 520 pounds dry.

This may have been said before; why put all that extra (water) weight over the already heavy rear end? Any leak will also mess up that nice engine.
Just an observation.

Your car is going to be a riot to drive with V8 torque!

It weighs less.

A quote from Renegade Hybrids "Reduced weight of the LS-1 is also a HUGE advantage over the "big" 911 motors. Weighing less than a completely dressed 3.0L NA motor, the LS-1 has turbo performance with much less than turbo six weight. With less weight in the rear and more power under your right foot, you can see why a converted 911 is so much fun to drive."

I'd put multiple radiators in series or maybe parallel with t-stats governing the flow. One big NASCAR radiator may not be the answer.

OK here is the update. I am heading back to Florida at the end of next week and will have some time to continue on my project. The plan is to first prove out the radiator cooling capabilities, short term I will use the current hoses and setup but will monitor the opening and closing. If everything checks out and the "What-ifs" are not a problem I will change out to -20AN braided flex hoses. I will have 2 temp gauges to monitor this.

So what to come in the next couple of weeks:
- Wiring Harness
- Gauge wiring and install
- Intake piping
- Oil Cooler
- A/C

More to come soon..

you need to have the radiator reworked to a dual pass or buy a dual pass, Kevin

Well I am now back home and will continue with the build :)

Waiting at my door was a delivery from Fedex which was my Nascar -20AN lines that I decided to purchase from Ebay to give a try for the X-over idea for the radiator hoses. At first glance they are very nice and have the cool Wiggins fitting on each end. The Add I bought them from said that they were from Nascar and used for Oil. They flex very well and will have no problem clearing the radiator and routing around the engine compartment, the only question is can they handle the heat?

Does anyone have experience or seen this try of hose before? I am not sure of the manufacture so I can not be for sure the temp rating. It appears to be made from some sort of Teflon or strong Urethane. One this is for sure is it is strong.. I can not crush it at all by hand.

Before trying out I am looking for some feedback, was also thinking of boiling some hot water and placing the hose in the water to see if it has an effect.

Looking fr some feedback on thishttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1238431632.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1238431649.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1238431669.jpg

oil temps will be as hot or hotter than coolant. If that's what they are used for, I'd think you are cleared for take-off. what is a wiggins fitting? Are those ends threaded or meant to clamp?

They kind of look like something for a washing machine or dishwasher outlet.

Doug

Looking good. You need to secure the hoses up under the rear tray area so they will not abraid anything on the engine as they move or vibrate.

Agree, I will need to modify my radiator inlet and outlet if I decide to use these hoses, I will need to cut off about 1/2" to get the 90 degree elbow to clear. I am still waiting to get more feedback on this type of hose before I make any cuts.

I was thinking these hoses were going to be braided bu they seem more like a hose for a vacuum cleaner in my house :confused:

Boiling water now to see how they take the heat :)

If it all checks out I will do the modification and route them correctly, picture earlier was just temporary to see if they would fit

Whats cooking?

My guess is that these are the PTFE hoses similar to what is listed below. I have been cooking it in boiling water for 20 min and they do not appear to weaken under heat. No melting or dis-figurement after 20min and I believe water boils at over 200F so maybe these will hold up OK.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1238440342.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1238440493.jpg

They are for meant to be used with a special clamp, They are very expensive to use so I will probably cut and use a nylon hose coupler to give it a little flex at the radiator.

The Wiggins clamps below are something like 30~40 dollars so I do not want to go with welding the male adapter needed and the clamps for something that has not been proven out yet. There are still many "What Ifs" with having a radiator mounted as I am doing so this must be proven first.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1238441217.jpg

Eater Update:

Decided to put some time into the project this weekend and have made some good progress. The oil cooler upgrade fit perfectly and went in the factory location of the rear oil tank. It is rather small but I did not want to have to go thru the trouble of a t-stat. If cooling becomes an issue than I will probably go bigger if needed. The 10AN lines were a nice addition and I decided to add a second oil pressure sensor and temp to monitor. The after market gauge will hook to these sensors and I will use the factory gauges to connect to the other sensors. Just a little added insurance just in case 1 sensor goes bad :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1239562279.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1239562306.jpg

Radiator Update:
With all the great feedback regarding the radiator I ended up removing the old setup and went with a more robust hose and 20AN fitting. I was very surprised in how big a 20AN fitting and almost did not have enough room to weld the flange to the end tanks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1239562634.jpg

More pictures of the completed cooling system. I was able to fill the entire system and run the pump for 30min without any leaks. The pump builds great pressure in the lines and flows a small amount thru the t-stat where I drilled the small holes. The Nascar flex hoses are pretty firm and provide just enough flex for the opening and closing of the rear deck lid. The added support shock on the right hand side is also holding up to the added weight of the water :)


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1239562797.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1239562814.jpg

I decided to route the intake into the fender near the oil cooler. Once I put my bumper back on I will measure the clearance for a nice big K&N. It will probably pickup much dirt coming off the tires so I will need to fabricate some type of shield or cover.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1239563239.jpg

Very cool once again. I would say that it's a mistake putting the filter there, but I'm sure with your mechanical skills that you post a few pics later on with a very neat setup.

Awesome job ! Remember that hydrolocking a cylinder is possible if the air intake sucks up water. Big bang. I have heard of this happening to the Mustang guys when they don't run a fender liner.

With the AN fittings and radiator hoses routed like you now have them, when you close the lid is there not too much bend (near the firewall) in the hoses to flow properly?

Looking good, new coolant lines look much cleaner.

If you put the air cleaner there where are you going to put the twin turbos?

Is that your TIG work? If so, then my hat's off to you. I can barely MIG my way of a wet paper bag. :D

As far as the K&N goes, I'd stay away from that brand. They flow a lot of air, but don't filter very well. An AFE would be a better choice IMO.

I had the radiator manufactured in China to fit in the location of the intercooler. Yea the guys at the shop can weld pretty good, not often you find a good Chinese machine shop in China. But since I stay in Shanghai 50% of the year it is a little easier for me :D

When the lid is open there is a slight strain on the bend radius but enough to flow. When closed the hose is then opened up more and no restriction. The hoses I used are braided flex and are very strong so they should hold up well

Without question the best conversion I have ever seen. Well done my friend! Through, complete, pretty and perfection.

Looks great. The inline thermostat looks pretty symmetrical, but it's not. If you're using a typical sbc thermostat the housing can be backwards which restricts flow through the housing. By that I mean the housing can be flipped around the wrong way even though the thermostat is going the right way. It will still cool, just not to full potential. You probably checked prior to installation :)

Oh, and on the thermostat the flow goes through the spring side first and out the flat side.

Thanks Steve, I was lucky that you marked the T-stat with an arrow before I had it welded :)

Here are some more pictures of how I have my t-stat and flex hose setup.

BTW, I would highly recommend the constant pressure hose clamps from NAPA, they are slightly more $$$ but the quality and strength worth the extra coin.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241421877.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241421912.jpg

You can't leave a piece of pipe like that. You need to "BLING" it a bit... ;)

Great build... :cool: