that varex muffler looks to be quite a piece. i like the idea of little to no noise when putting around town as in daily driver. and open for the open road..i will look into that. thanks for the idea..picture of my conversion. all aluminum dart sbc roller motor...434 cubic inches and 585 chp..the car weighs 2250 pounds and has all the stuff to handle the power, big brakes, big bars. 930 lsd, aluminum trailing arms and front cross member. it has mass flo efi and dual wahlberg 255 lph fuel pumps mounted in the gas tank. oil cooler is mounted in the passenger rear seat area with electric fan. oil radiator is fed cooling air through quarter window naca ducts. i also us an electric mezziere water pump.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250881154.jpg

585, whoa!!

Very nice welding on the canister to the left. Droool

Nice, vey clean and I am sure that bad boy hallz ballz.. Every run it at the track?

That's bad as !!!

no it is my daily driver. it is a rs lookalike and my favorite color on longhoods...gulf blue!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250891624.jpg

That is one h@ll of a sleeper! Very nice!

That's got to be one hell of a scoot! Nice execution!

Scott at RH has a deal with Turnkey Engine Supply to build a short-stroke LS engine that's good for 7300 RPM (IIRC). You can imagine the advantage in track use with a power band that wide.

I have a 1966 912 V8 SBC with a 915 trans and centerforce dual. I also have
a ron davis 4 core aluminum rad with twin fan up front. I'm pushing probably
400hp. The clutch is the weak link and slips. The car overheats in hot weather
so I think you'll have problems.
Back in the 70's they put a big olds v8 and installed the radiator where you
have it. I believe the cooling efficiency will be better as the cooled water
has less distance to return to the engine. In order for a radiator to work the
water needs to move from top to bottom to experience max heat transfer.
The other issue is you need a lot of air flow. I hope it works for you.

Took the car off the jack stands this weekend in an effort to settle on an exhaust and get towed in the up coming weeks for some custom welding. Still not sure which mufflers to run with and hope to get some advice from some members out there.

Couple of shoots for you.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1251406917.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1251406953.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1251406972.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1251407048.jpg

wha...... have you tested the 915 with that monster? :)

From what everyone around here has been saying I'm scared a 915 wouldn't be able to handle the turbo H4 (~300+ torque) I plan on using

Torque is the killer to watch for, i will dial ir down under 400hp and no hard launches or clutch drops. I did do some work to the tranny by adding the 1pcs retainer, 930 bearings and billet side cover. It will help but is not the answer. Long term I will be looking towards a 930 trans but will first test the waters with the upgraded 915.

Another renegade conversion in progress
 

I am working on a similar renegade conversion. I went with a 2001 Corvette LS6. I'm working with a 'radiator up-front' setup, but I ran the cooling lines through the heater vents rather than under the car ... I just coudn't route the line through the front suspension. 930 Tranny with 930 suspension.

I ended up using a set of JBA headers made for a Silverado (JBA-1850S-3 ), they cleared the Renegade engine mount, my original LS6 headers didn't.

I working on the fuel cell mount right now. good luck with your build!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252346878.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252346895.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252346909.jpg

[QUOTE=mkingham;4882632]I am working on a similar renegade conversion. I went with a 2001 Corvette LS6. I'm working with a 'radiator up-front' setup, but I ran the cooling lines through the heater vents rather than under the car ... I just coudn't route the line through the front suspension. 930 Tranny with 930 suspension.

I ended up using a set of JBA headers made for a Silverado (JBA-1850S-3 ), they cleared the Renegade engine mount, my original LS6 headers didn't.

I working on the fuel cell mount right now. good luck with your build!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252346878.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252346895.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252346909.jpg

Is (that) an electric water pump required on ls1 911,s?

Electric water pump on LS1 conversion
 

Hi Obi, Yes, you have to go with a remote water pump to fit the LS motor into the 911 engine bay. There is a lot of room for the LS motor from side to side, but front to back, it is really tight. Pulling the stock water pump and pullies off of the front of the motor buys you several inches.

Renegade makes these neat little aluminum adapters that bolt into the block where the water pump was and redirects the flow off to each side. Its the only way to make the engine fit. Here is a picture looking top down on the motor.

You will see a thin aluminum plate that is 1/2 inch thick, I used it as a spacer to align the motor mounts, but you can see how tight the fit is. One of the RH adapters is in the middle of the picture with one hose connected and the other 90 deg elbow doesn't have the hose on it yet.

Besides buying you the necessary room, the remote electric pump does a better jobs of moving water at low rpm's than a engine mounted mechanical one.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252414153.jpg

e,ectric pump
 

i have an electric meziere remote water pump also. i much prefer over the rh pump that is belt driven. i have blown a water hose off a couple of times when running through the gears with the go pedal to the floor. also as todd stated you get really good flow at idle or low speed when you most likely need it the most. todd, where did you mount your pump? also, mkingham, i have an aluminum front cross member which i drilled and had thick walled aluminum tubing welded into the opening so that my water hoses connect on either side of the crossmember and i do not feel that i have lost any strength in the cross member.

Yeah, the guys at RH suggested that route as well. But it looked like the hose would still rub against the sway bar. On my car, it is mounted right behind the aluminum cross member. Do you have any pictures of your modified crossmember? I would like to see that.

Mike

Mkingham
Great to see another LS build and that you are in Winter Haven. You may want to check with the guys at Renegade before posting any pictures of the cradle and cooling blocks, they are a little sensitive about this as it is proprietary to their design.

How far along are you in your build? We will have to get together one weekend and exchange notes.

I plan to get my car towed on Saturday to get the exhaust welded, after that I will start to debug and tune.

Mkingham
Great to see another LS build and that you are in Winter Haven. You may want to check with the guys at Renegade before posting any pictures of the cradle and cooling blocks, they are a little sensitive about this as it is proprietary to their design.

How far along are you in your build? We will have to get together one weekend and exchange notes.

I plan to get my car towed on Saturday to get the exhaust welded, after that I will start to debug and tune.

todd, excuse me for answering mike's question. i have a longhood car with the early through the chassis sway bar...so i do not have that as an interference to deal with. also i converted an early tank as rh suggests and have a spare aluminum tank to sell. mounted two 255lph wahlberg pumps into the gas tank with a fuel pressure gauge in the dash very quite and plenty of pressure for my efi.. this makes it very easy to carry a 996 type spare in the front.