Yes. As soon as it's done I'll put together a youtube video.

TRE Boxster Brake conversion. Thanks Dave! Thanks Heidy!

Hoping to get the car running this weekend.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406341209.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406341221.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406341245.jpg

Some technical board this is. Not one person noticed I installed the front calipers upside down.

Went back today, put on the last couple of lines and was totally shocked when I went to bleed them.

It's fixed now.

been away from my computer for a day or two, but I think your caliper is upside down..bleeders go up top :D

That pic is dark enough that I can't even see the bleeders...

--DD

I noticed you have perimeter bolt valve covers. I was under the impression that was only used on 97-98 cars then they switched to the center bolt style. Odd

otherwise I love the project

It's out of a 99 corvette, so that's possible. I never did the research but I'm beginning to because I chose to leave the drive by wire pedal in place and now I'm having trouble installing it. I thought I'd just buy a CTS-V pedal but that pedal won't work with this engine.

It also rules out the totally rad Lokar pedal.

I think I'm going to mount it to floor and actuate it with my Rennline adjustable pedal.

H

i remember having a bit of trouble mounting my drive by wire pedal assembly. i had to build a mounting pad on the firewall to pace it suitably. i did use the bulkhead rather than the floor. and once mounted the pedal sensitivity is adjustable via the ecm.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406945975.jpg

Yeah. That's where mine ended up. But I forgot to grab a pic of it before I left! Doh!

It's a little low for me. I can't really heel and toe it. Actually, heel and toe is all I can do. Big toe on brake, heel on throttle. I'll change it later. It needs to be the same height as the brake so I can just roll my ankle left and right to get brake or throttle.

Here's some pics from today. Moving shops on Monday. Down to a punch list, now!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407524820.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407524835.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407524877.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407524895.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407524912.jpg

not_hans_stuck,

Tell us about the water hose ends... is that some kind of shrink material that clamps the hoses to the fittings? Or...

Thanks,

not_hans_stuck,

Tell us about the water hose ends... is that some kind of shrink material that clamps the hoses to the fittings? Or...

Thanks,

Gates single use heat shrink clamps. They are very cool

Hose Clamps...
 

Wow, double cool, I've never seen them before... Do they work well?

Thanks,

Yup. That's what they are. They're from Gates. They're called PowerGrip SB - you can get the from NAPA or anywhere really.

They work great. Basically, there are two types of hose clamps. Constant Radius and Constant Tension. Constant Radius are what you usually see - the worm drive type. Constant tension are the spring type that you see on modern cars. These are a new type of constant tension. The basic idea is that the pipe and the hose expand and shrink with temperature. And while stainless steel clamps may look pretty they expand less with heat than either rubber or aluminum so the hotter the car gets the more tension is placed on the hose. Usually, this extra tension exceeds the elasticity of the hose so you see the rubber bulging through the clamp. Multiple cycles of expansion and contraction abrades the end of the hose over time.

The rubber fitting expands almost the same as the rubber hose so it's much better.

Also, it looks cool.

H

I guess it's Hans... you bring up a good point about the expansion of tubing and hoses, We tighten hose clamps "cold" which when they get hot the constant tension clamps squeeze into the hose. I've never thought of that until your post... Thanks,

I just wished that I was aware of the heat shrink clamps when I completed my water system. The first opportunity that I need to drain the radiators, I'll look into the heat shrink clamps. Typically how much can they shrink, 10%, 20%?

Thanks,

They list the range on the box. For instance, one of them is pn 32934. It fits hoses with OD's between 1-3/16'' and 1-1/2"

H

Where did you source the studs that you used to mount the transmission to the LS block? Did it come with the adapter plate kit? If not, do you have the specs on the studs you used?

Thanks.

-Don

I've told people this privately, but I haven't posted it.

Buy the kit from Renegade.

It includes all the hardware and I'm absolutely positive you cannot save yourself money by sourcing the parts individually. Don't reinvent the wheel.

The company that makes the adapter plate makes the adapter plate. They don't make the driveshaft bearing or the bolts. An adapter plate is not a kit.

If the kit is too much money for you, then you cannot afford to do the swap. Period.

This stuff ain't cheap. And don't go thinking that you can put an LS1 motor into a Porsche to save yourself the cost of rebuilding the Porsche motor. The swap, done correctly, will cost you more.

I'll caveat that by saying that IF you are planning on building a 450hp turbo motor, then the swap will be less. But it is NOT less than rebuilding your 3.2 or 2.7 motor into a mostly stock configuration. I'm pretty sure you can do a 3.6 hot rod for about the same money, as well.

I'm sure the other guys on the board that have done this swap can confirm this.

They are, however, an absolute blast to drive. At least, the one I drove was and that owner neglected even basic maintenance of the suspension and, in fact, the rest of the car.

I can't wait to drive mine for the first time. Shouldn't be long now.


Oh, and one last shameless endorsement for Renegade. Those guys rock. Just the fact that you can call them on the phone and toss ideas around is worth any extra amount you might be paying for something from them that you might be able to source from their OEM. Don't waste your time. Just buy the kit from them.


Hal

Not_hans_stuck, AKA Hal...

Hal is dead right, plus there's a lot of other factors involved... Non use of the car, the conversion isn't a 90 day turn around deal. I bought a Max Jax lift, I wouldn't do the conversion without one, or at least for the 996 conversion. These projects always cost more than you plan

I could go on, but Hal nailed what your considerations should be based on. However the bottom line is the LS engine is a bullet proof engine that will give years of high performance fun.

I just completed a 4,000 mile trip in my 996/LS3, averaged 24.4 MPG, not too bad for a 480 HP engine...

Like Hal says, a complete blast to drive...