Timing questionTiming. I here Saab uses gm engines sometimes

[jakebenson6669]

Ok, so i put new timing chains and sprockets in my 2.2 ecotec cobalt to fix stretched timing chain. I noticed that once everything was together, my can markings pulled a little closer together. Makes sense due to stretching. And all markings for the top end timing line up great. But, the balance shaft markings aren't quite the same as when I tore it apart. The arrows on the gears were at 6 and 12 when I took the chain off, but to line them up with the markings on the new chain, the arrows are more at like 730 and 130. Will this affect anything? *The car fires right up with no rattles, and idles great, but when I rev it it kinda acts like a throttle position sensor and Boggs out just a bit. But it'll run fine, until, you get up to about 150 degrees on the gauge. As soon as you hit that temp, the car says engine reduces power and throws the map/mag correlation code, no throttle response at all, and idles like crap. I can clear the code, and it will fire back up and idle fine, and even take me a few feet up the road again before it kicks back into limp mode. *Now I'm wondering, could I maybe have set the timing to top dead center intake, instead of true top dead center power stroke? I mean in theory it would still run because atmospheric pressure would make sure it got air and fuel and it still firing, but during at the intake valves are opening instead of while being shut. Does this make sense to anyone? Or should i look into a throttle body and electronic gas pedal? The throttle position sensor is mounted on the pedal, meaning the whole pedal needs replaced if it goes. I didn't think it would idle and run half decent if it was out of time, but I could be wrong. Someone please help me, I am stumped, and can't pay 250 for the throttle and throttle body just to find out that they aren't the problem.