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Rear trunk torsion bar install in 10 minutes.
My hinge bracket broke a few months ago, so I removed the torsion bar from the one side to keep the trunk sitting level. I got the bracket fixed recently, so now I was faced with putting the whole torsion bar back in from scratch, plus since I didn’t have any help around, I didn't want to remove the trunk lid. I was surprised that once I got the torsion bar bolted loosely in place, the whole process only took about 10 minutes. I did do a dry run of the following process with one end of the torsion bar unbolted. This let me see exactly what I wanted to do and plan it out safely. Be very careful and don't put any part of your body in the way of the torsion bar in case it should let go or you slip.
Tools used: Leather gloves!! 3/4" combo wrench (biggest I had) 1/2" deep socket (3/8") 6" extension (3/8") 1.With the trunk lid up and the curved part of the torsion bar against the rear trunk wall, I slipped the box end of the combo wrench around the torsion bar. I don’t remember which way I had the angle of the box end facing. Just use what will work. 2.Then use the extension and the socket on the end of the torsion bar and push back so that you can get the combo wrench down past the curve, this is key. Once that is done you can remove the socket and extension. Pressure will push the wrench against the rear trunk wall. 3.Now comes the fun part. Push the wrench forward (VERY CAREFULLY) all the way past the side engine grill support and onto the peg of the hinge. The tip of my torsion bar just nicked the grill support. Make sure the wrench is seated well because it could slip around on you and cause your paint some damage and maybe even you. 4.Now that the torsion bar is on the hinge peg, you'll notice that your left with a wrench stuck on the bar… Just move (wiggle, twist) the wrench as far to the end of the torsion bar as it will go. 5.Take the extension, without the socket and place over the tip of the torsion bar. Push down while you slip the wrench past the peg. Remove the extension and slip off the wrench. 6.Now use the extension again to push down and put the roller (plastic, metal) bearing onto the peg. 7.Secure all the bolts, and lube it up. That's it. Hope it'll help someone else. Please be careful. |
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Eric;
I had a hinge bracket crap out too, and used virtually the exact same procedure that you did. I too used a deep socket and extension, but I slipped and the damn thing nearly broke my thumb. I'm man enough to admit that I'm still scared of it. Sometimes when I open the engine lid, I swear it's laughing at me.
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Herb '72 Tangerine 'Teen 2.4 liter aluminum handgrenade Last edited by HMeeder; 05-11-2002 at 07:16 PM.. |
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Yea, I pushed the wrench up a couple of times to make sure I had a good bite and was centered on the bar properly.
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Author of "101 Projects"
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I gave up, and installed one of our rear trunk shock units. What a difference! The trunk doesn't fly up with enough force to knock my teeth out now!
-Wayne
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Wayne R. Dempsey, Founder, Pelican Parts Inc., and Author of: 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 • How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines • 101 Projects for Your Porsche Boxster & Cayman • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 996 / 997 • SPEED READ: Porsche 911 Check out our new site: Dempsey Motorsports |
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That is true Wayne. I've been running on one torsion bar long enough that I forgot about how quickly the trunk likes to come up. Keep BOTH hands on it.
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Piech
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I am just reading through this, as I am about to reinstall the torsion bar onto a new vinyl bracket I just purchased using this method. Just wanted to reach out and thank the folks for posting it here, as usual! Looking forward to breaking my fingers!
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-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~- '07 Cayman S Arctic Silver/Terracotta '75 914 1.8 Metallic Copper/Black (4SALE) Livin' the dream |
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