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Porsche 911 SC, SAAB SPG
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 308
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BLEEEEPing rear quarter windows!
Well, I'm happy to say that after 12+ attempts, I've finally figured out how to correctly install the rear quarter windows. I am surprised that there isn't a more documented procedure as these things really put me through a loop.
My disclaimer is that I've never done these windows before and they were already out when I got the car so I didn't see how they should be installed. Now that my wife and I know the procedure, it only took us about 2 minutes to install both windows... Anyways... Here is my procedure: 1. Before installing the seal on the glass, be sure to rest the aluminum trim on the glass and make sure it fits the edges very nicely. You can have some warps, but the smaller they are, the easier the install goes. To fix any gaps, I run my hand along the area in a sweeping motion and apply the necessary bending pressure. After 10 passes the trim should have moved a little bit. Repeat as necessary. 2. The new seal can be tough to get onto the glass. I started with the long end and got that started and then stretched the seal over the small end of the glass. Once all three ends are on I went around the rest of the glass making sure it was fully inserted into the seal. Double check you put it on correctly and the trim groove is on the outside! 3. Installing the trim is tricky. The seal is much tougher than the front or rear window seals. I placed the larger trim piece on the window to line up the curve. Then I taped it down so it wouldn't move. Now I started at one end and pulled on the end of the seal, while pushing down on the trim. This is a very tricky process, but once you get the hang of it, it goes in pretty easy. Basically you need to pull the seal away from the trim, then use your other thumb to push up at the base of the seal, and then using your other fingers to push down on the trim. When you get it right you can hear the seal actually "snap" into place as you go along. 4. I used a 3/16" rope instead of the 1/4" rope recommended for the other windows. It was much easier to install and pull out than the bigger rope. I sprayed the end of the seal with some WD-40 to make installing the rope much easier. One finger would slide down the seal opening it up, while my other hand slide the rope into the slot. I got this part down to a science as I must have done it 20 times. You want the ends of the rope to be along the straight edge of the seal. Be sure to leave at least 3-4 inches of overlap. This is KEY! I also taped the ends of the rope to the glass so it wouldn't come loose or get lost when installing the window. 5. Before installing the window, it will make life a little easier if you go ahead and pull out the door seal around the corner and down the B-Pillar. Otherwise it gets in the way. This is optional, but I found it really did make the whole process easier. 6. Now lift the big flap on the seal and you will see a groove. (No good pict). This groove needs to sit inside the window frame on the car. It is a bear to get seated correctly. Once you get it seated, DO NOT PUSH ON THE OTHER END OF THE GLASS yet. Otherwise it will pop right out. ![]() 7. With a helper pushing on the outside of the straight section, make sure the window is flush against the b-pillar. If it isn't flush, then you installed it wrong. Pull out the rope until you get around both corners and then stop. This will help hold the window in place while you push on the other side. To make sure it doesn't come out, I used a wood clamp against the window and the b-pillar. 8. Now push on the curved end until the window is fully flush against the car. You need to push pretty hard. Hold the end of the window with one hand and then use the other hand to push down on the specific area where you are pulling the rope out. I started at the top and worked my way around. If you did this right, this part should go very quickly. 9. Make sure the door closes! If the door doesn't close then the window is not installed right. Most likely you didn't get the seal into the groove from step 6. Looking from the inside, make sure the seal is fully seated all the around the window frame. Looking on the outside and near the curve, make sure the seal has no gaps to the car body. ![]() I hope this helps some people in the future!
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Jeff C |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2007
Location: East TN
Posts: 477
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Nice write-up Jeff.
I especially like the pic with you flipping the bird at the bleeping windows.
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I will be doing it this weekend, Thanks, this saved me a lot of time and beer, well maybe time!
Did you use any type of sealer on the seal? I noticed when I removed mine there was some black sticky gunk in there? Excellent!
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______________________ Craig G2Performance Twinplug, head work, case savers, rockers arms, etc. |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: RI
Posts: 902
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Those seals are are very hard to get right. The first window took about 45 minutes to figure out . The next side went quicker but not any easier.
If I were to do it again I would use silicone on the seal that faces in, It would have made pushing the window in a little easier. I use soapy water but that did not seem to help much. That seal fits so tight in the body of the car, it's a wonder the glass does not explode. This was just to get them back in the car, the trim was another job in itself ![]() Took my thumbs a week or more to go back to there normal shape
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Silver 1980SC Euro coupe |
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Porsche 911 SC, SAAB SPG
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 308
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Quote:
He said to NEVER use WD-40 on the rubber as the sealer won't stick to the rubber after this. He used a spray glass cleaner to provide the lubricant. His procedure for sealant was to fully install the glass and then he went around the outide of the seal and filled the body gap and then he went around the inner part between the glass and seal.
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Jeff C |
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trim
Thanks everyone for the info. Appreciate it greatly.
EP Slick - Tucson
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AMG V8 SL55 Mercedes, 993 C2, 86' Carrera 3.6 hot rod, Purple 1998 993 that didn't make the cut, 3 very old 930s, A/Fuel Dragster CH3NO2 (R.I.P.), Blown Alcohol TAD, AA/AA, 360 Maxim wingless, Cummins Turbo Diesel. Amateur Welder, Painter and sculptor sort of. - |
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Recreational User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: A Mile High
Posts: 4,159
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 73
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Save your thumbs a little work...
These wood working quick grips are very useful for applying downward pressure on the trim while you use your thumbs to force open the slot. It's kinda like having a couple of extra hands and since the pads are rubber, there's no damage to the delicate trim or window. It was also nice to have one clamping the narrow end of the trim in place so I could start on the wide end without having to worry about any unwanted alignment upset.
The grips are at all the big box home improvement stores in the wood working area and come in handy on lots of projects...pretty cheap at about $20 and certainly less than buying a couple of extra hands. ![]() ![]()
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i have to do this to my car tomorrow for both sides and sadly i have to do the rear glass,does anyone have any tips on tackling that,its going to be temped in because i have to rewire the rear defroster and its only in prime i need to iron a few kinks out in the motor right now
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1981 911sc Coupe "Valerie" Widebody 2001 Audi S4 Avant, "The Daily Booster!" 2001 Ducati 748 Biposto "The Torture Rack" 71 Chevrolet Corvette Roadster " The Moth Ball" |
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