Winter tuneup

fasterpatrick · 12-21-2007, 05:48 PM

signit98 · 12-21-2007, 06:11 PM

...that's a little more elaborate than my winter tune-up... but not bad, not bad at all!

Thanks for sharing, I think you are qualified as a nutter for this board now! Welcome...

If you are bored - being that you are done and all... I can send you my bike!?

wswartzwel · 12-21-2007, 08:31 PM

Wow! Great job on realigning the tranny to the engine with off setting the dowels!!

lht · 12-22-2007, 06:26 AM

I bet those splines will wear even now. To bad BMW suppliers don't hold the same specs. I know a guy with a 04 Rockster with 15,000 miles and the tranny input splines are worn off. Image them letting go out on the Highway. He was lucky , it happened at a stop light.

Another guys BCR (04) Hall sensor was intermittent. He was on the Highway and almost was run over. Scary stuff

Bob Hancock · 12-22-2007, 09:34 AM

Great #2 post Patrick! Where do you live? Can I stop by?

Do you have a suggestion about how to clean up the heads on the inside without taking them somewhere to blast? I've got some Ducati heads that could use some of that. I'd prefer to use something that doesn't require changing out the valve guides.
Thanks.

signit98 · 12-22-2007, 10:00 AM

Ah, Bob... once you have the heads off, you may as well change the guides and do a wholesome job... it is not THAT much more work, but it will add some extra "insurance" if you will...

I'd be careful with blasting them... that can create all sorts of issues.

pmc847 · 12-22-2007, 10:29 AM

Patrick,

Pull those rods and have them balance and install new rod bearings. If you are going to reuse the pistons have them balanced too, better yet get SJBMW 12:1 HC pistons. Even if you don't port the heads at least match the throttle bodies to the rubber mount and rubber mount to the heads.

Great pics and great job on the rebuild.

Philip
"It's a great bike but I can make it better, then blow it up and then make it better again".

04 R1100S BCR # 195
03 R1100S BCR #44 R.I.P. new home with 'onekiwi'
1150 cc cylinders
12:1 SJBMW pistons
BMW 36 mm intake valves
Ported and polished heads (just a little)
'07 R1200R cams
TBs bored +3 mm
Throttle bodies matched to rubber mounts matched to heads
SJBMW Exhaust Accelerator Kit (modified)
Exhaust pipe welds ground down
Laser Exhaust
Laser 2 spark Chip
InDuct
SJ PowerFilter
K's 3.5 bar regulator
Ohlins
Sargant Seat
Spiegler SS Brake Lines
LED tail/stop light and turn signals
Aux Fuel Tank (6.8 gallons total)

RBMann · 12-23-2007, 10:06 AM

Great photos and interesting curved wear on the splines.

Thnaks, RB

Peter Parts · 11:37 AM

Fasterpatrick -

Great set of procedures. Thanks. Gotta make space for a lathe in my shop.

With that degree of wear on the spline, do you think the wear could be detected shaking the rear wheel in a high gear or is there just too much normal tolerance between the wheel and the clutch? Can you feel it through the gap with the starter motor removed? Any way besides tearing apart?

Your comment about Honda Moly grease: are you saying there is wear despite the visible residue of that grease? Or any grease? Does that leaves Mercury Green grease last grease standing?

Thanks.

SergioK · 12-23-2007, 11:48 AM

Wow... just WOW!

fasterpatrick · 12-24-2007, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Hancock

Do you have a suggestion about how to clean up the heads on the inside without taking them somewhere to blast? I've got some Ducati heads that could use some of that. I'd prefer to use something that doesn't require changing out the valve guides.

Well, what's shown in those pictures is to use an oxy/acetylene cutting torch to cook the carbon. It's sort of like using a self cleaning oven. But you probably don't want to practice on good heads, because if you botch it up, you can easily melt valve seat inserts, or iron valve guides, because... well... you are using a cutting torch.

When you're done with that step, let the head cool a bit so you can handle it, then blast it with baking soda. You wouldn't want to use sand or glass beads, because you'll never get all the abrasive out. But with baking soda, when you're done, just wash the head in soapy water and it all dissolves and washes away.

This is the gun I used for that:

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/UNI-007.html

As far as using something other than a torch and baking soda blasting... *shrug* scrape it out and use some carb cleaner on the rest I guess. But you're not going to get it as clean as with a torch and baking soda.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter Parts

With that degree of wear on the spline, do you think the wear could be detected shaking the rear wheel in a high gear or is there just too much normal tolerance between the wheel and the clutch? Can you feel it through the gap with the starter motor removed?

Your comment about Honda Moly grease: are you saying there is wear despite the visible residue of that grease?

I doubt you could discern that free play at the rear wheel. Maybe, but I doubt it. There's a bit of backlash in the gear dogs too. But yeah, pulling the starter off, maybe if you pulled in the clutch lever to push the pressure plate forward, and reached in to spin the clutch disk back and forth, you might be able to discern between play at the splines from the gear dog backlash inside the trans from that end. That's a good idea.

And yes, that was my point about the Honda Moly 60. I cleaned the splines of the disk and shaft, used a brush to evenly coat them with moly, and you can see the wear in 23k miles. So I think lack of lube or quality of lube is not the root problem here.

Patrick

Bob Hancock · 12-24-2007, 12:40 PM

Well since I don't own a torch and have never used one and these are good heads I guess I'll just clean 'em up with plan B. Thanks though.....was wondering how you got them so nice.

PFFOG · 12-25-2007, 04:00 PM

Walnut shell use to be a very popular blasting medium for blasting inside engines. There has been a lot of dry ice blasting for paint removal, but could be an effective blasting medium as well.

Both would eliminate the reside issue.

DavidSoine · 12-26-2007, 08:19 AM

Interesting work! How was the indicator stand trued to the crank centerline? (I'm no machinist).

best,

Dave
99 R11S

fasterpatrick · 12-27-2007, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidSoine

How was the indicator stand trued to the crank centerline?

It doesn't have to be trued to the crank. All it has to be is solidly attached. Spin the crank, and the stand spins in a circle with it. The indicator follows a circle too, and if that circle is concentric with the bore you're trying to measure, all is happy and the indicator reading doesn't change all the way around. If it is not, the indicator will tell you how far out of line the two are.

And something I did not take into account when I first did this, was the crank to main bearing clearance. Someone on the ibmwr tech list pointed it out to me and I had to go back and take the measurements again while wobbling the crank around in its bearings, then move the bushing inserts again. So it was a little more work than indicated in those photos, but still, stock it wasn't lined up. But the difference was more like 3 thou than 5 thou.

Peter Parts · 12-27-2007, 08:52 AM

But once the hard parts wore down 3 or 5 thou, wouldn't they then be sitting pretty?

roger albert · 12-27-2007, 09:47 AM

> do you think the wear could be detected shaking the rear wheel in a high gear or is there just too much normal tolerance between the wheel and the clutch?

There's a ton of slop in there, just in the rear end, much less the transmission. Not impossible, but not anything well quantifiable.

> But once the hard parts wore down 3 or 5 thou, wouldn't they then be sitting pretty?

Jeez no. That's just more slop and more misalignment (albeit possibly slightly slightly less binding) and thus still more wear.

JonyRR · 12-27-2007, 12:23 PM

bob hancock:
a soda blaster from eastwood (www.eastwood.com) is the ticket for easy carbon removal. I just bought the gun (it's different for soda than for other media) and use my existing tank.

If you do the ports consider extrudehoneing them
(http://www.extrudehone.com/)

roger albert · 12-27-2007, 12:38 PM

btw, I've used soda in a cheap generic small handheld regular media blaster from harbor freight to very good results. A purpose built one with smaller jetting might be better, or maybe run longer on the same amount of soda, but a regular one works very well. great for carbs, and really old vintage and brass fittings.

I've never had luck with Walnut media. I've tried two different grain sizes with a bunch of different orifice sizes in a pressure blaster, and have never gotten by w/o nearly instant clogging.

If anyone has had better luck than me and could tell me how I'm messing up, I'd be glad to hear it.

Bob Hancock · 12-27-2007, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonyRR

bob hancock:
a soda blaster from eastwood (www.eastwood.com) is the ticket for easy carbon removal. I just bought the gun (it's different for soda than for other media) and use my existing tank.

If you do the ports consider extrudehoneing them
(http://www.extrudehone.com/)

Good reference....will check it out and put it on the list. Thanks Jony.