Is This AAR Good or Bad?

[smestas]

I was inspecting my Aux Air Regulator and tested it as mentioned in other posts. First I placed it into my freezer for 20 min and the opening did not close or open any more then it was already. I also had the same results when heated up. Out of curiosity to see if the wheel was stuck I tried to move it with a screwdriver and it moves without bind but I can feel the resistance of a spring or something similar. Although it is not opening or closing anymore will I harm my car to run it in its current state? I'm not to concerned about any cold start enrichment since this is a SoCal car and I don’t mind giving her a few until she’s ready to run.

Any comments would be appreciated.

[ChrisBennet]

Apply 12v to the connector. The internal heater, heats a bimetalic strip that causes the valve to close. I use one of those jumper packs to supply the 12v.
-Chris

[tsuter]

The freezer test should be overnight. It will cause it to open but not necessarily all the way - just "mostly open". The oven test is bake at 220F for 20 minutes w preheat. It should close all the way.
The 12 volt test at 70F should also cause it to close all the way in about 60-120 seconds.

[john walker's workshop]

au contraire. the opening does not close all the way when hot. the pic shows pretty much the normal cold opening. most open just a hair more, but there are different opening amounts, as well as different shaped openings thru all the different numbers of AARs.

[ohecht]

I would be interested in some pictures of the best open and closed positions for an 82. I recalibrated mine a long time ago using an adjustable nut and bolt in place of the metal plug at the base of the metallic strip. I cured an excessively high idle that way, but I would like to make sure I have it in spec.

Olivier

[fred cook]

I pulled and tested the AAR on my '80 911SC not long ago and found that 5-10 minutes in the freezer would open it about 95% of the max and that about 2 minutes of 12v. being applied would cause it to close enough that no light would pass thru. Dunno, maybe the AAR on my engine is "wierd", but it seems to work as it should! Any other experiences?

Fred Cook
'80 911SC coupe

[ohecht]

I finally got mine to work the same way after adjusting it several times, but the results always used to be different on the engine. I even watched the opening with a flashlight and mirror while it was in place onthe running engine with 12v, and it always seemed to take longer to close. It was almost as if being mounted caused the houseing to warp enough to make the valve stickier. Very frustrating, since mounting it is such a pain.

[tsuter]

It closes so tight you can't hardly see through it - 95% at least. Hot test or 12 v. either one. If it doesn't you need to adjust it, get a new one or adjust your CO and idle as if you got a nice air leak cause you do!

[smestas]

Thanks for the replies!

Previously when I said I tested it in heat I guess I failed to mention that all I did was heat it up with a blow dryer until it got to hot to handle. After reading Tsuter's comment on placing it in an oven at 220 I realized that a hair blow dryer just doesn’t do it (what was I thinking). So I just took it out of the oven at 220 (pre-heated as told) after 10 min and the opening was half way more closed then my first picture and after 20 min she closed right up all the way. My next step it to find some hose so I can check if the air passage is truly 100% closed when shut which I also read can cause problems with an AAR. On another note when I tested the electrical connections I only held it connected for a few seconds waiting to see if anything would happen. After reading the replies I realized I also tested this in the wrong way and it seems that I’m going to have to leave the 12v connected for a few min before seeing a result.

So with the warm testing out of the way I guess its safe to say from Johns post that my first image post might be the normal room temp position? I'll try to long term freeze it and report back with another post.

I was thinking that for a SoCal car is there any reason that one couldn’t just bypass the whole AAR all together and just plug or cap of each end of the hose going to it or would it cause me to loose performance during those first 10-20 min while the opening is closing up?

After this is tackled its off to check the WUR!

Here is a picture right out of the oven after 20min @ 220deg:

[ohecht]

I am still curious about the correct opening when "fully closed". If John says there should be some opening, I am sure that is right. Would the idle, mixture, etc. just be set to compensate for this (i.e. get normal idle and CO levels at operating temp even with the slight opening)

Here is mine after overnight in the freezer. It is hard to see the valve, but it could be "none more open". You can also see the screw and bolt I can use to adjust the opening and sensitivity:



And after 20 min at 220F:



I am tempted to adjust it for a slightly smaller opening, since my car idles high for a while (which is not such a bad symptom)

Olivier

[ohecht]

OK, mine closes all the way at 300F. Is that too hot, or would it reach that temperature on the engine? I still have to test how it closes with 12v applied.

[smestas]

My final results were.

Room Temp:
1/3 open (same as my first post)

Freezer for a few hours:
1/3 open (same as my first post)

20 min at 220F in the oven:
Fully Closed

2 min after being hooked to a 12v power supply:
Fully Closed

[smestas]

Originally posted by smestas
I was thinking that for a SoCal car is there any reason that one couldn’t just bypass the whole AAR all together and just plug or cap of each end of the hose going to it or would it cause me to loose performance during those first 10-20 min while the AAR is closing up?

BUMP

[jstobo]

I'd say your AAV is working correctly. As i've said before, the electrical connection heats up the valve quicker than relying on engine heat.

[jason2guy]

news alert!! the engine heat is NOT enough to close the valve.
i just went through a whole thing with mine to fiqure out this simple fact.
if there is no power at the valve it wont close

[addictionMS]

What I want to know is what does the rest of your families think when you are putting these things in your oven. Washing parts in the dishwasher I can uderstand, but cooking your engine parts in the oven, now that crosses the line....


Jim

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by addictionMS

What I want to know is what does the rest of your families think when you are putting these things in your oven. Washing parts in the dishwasher I can uderstand, but cooking your engine parts in the oven, now that crosses the line....
Jim

Well Jim..
I did the parts in the kitchen act before I got married.. so if I ever stop doing it I would be creating a bad habit...........Ron

[ohecht]

My wife has always been very patient with that...even when she found a front hub inthe overn warming up for the race in the freezer.

I asked her if she noticed the AAR in there as I was pulling it out, and she said she thought she saw something funny in there.

Olivier

[Xander1969]

There are plugs at the end of mine. One on each end and one larger than the other. They look similar to the plugs on a WUR. Can these be used to make adjustments similar to the WUR "knocking the plug"? If so, does anybody know which would make what adjustment? Mine only opens about 1/4 when cold, so I'm seeking a remedy.

[jjrowe]

news alert!! the engine heat is NOT enough to close the valve.
i just went through a whole thing with mine to fiqure out this simple fact.
if there is no power at the valve it wont close

Absolutely. My car ran like crap when cold when I got it. Turning up the idle helped but then it idled too high when warm. After trying to chase all kinds of other potential causes, it ended up being that I didn't have 12v to the AAV so it didn't shut all the way when the motor was warmed up. I don't think you can just plug it, even in socal.