[John Rogers]

I have a generator the same size as yours and an extra one a bit smaller. I decided against tying them or the large one into the house because of the necessity of permits, otherwise if there is a electrical fire the home owners insurance (mine anyways) would not cover any damage.
Sooooo I have a heavy duty extension cord and power panel for the garage (spare frig, freezer, heater and tankless hot water heater. I have two more cords and panels for up stairs that cover the fridge with my wife and daughter's meds inside, freezer side of it, computer, some lights and internet router, ETC.

I have used them once when we had the bad fire years ago and most all power was cut everywhere for about 24 hours. They both run quietly and a tank of gas last 20 hours.

If you are going to hard wire it in as mentioned earlier you will need a method to sense when power is coming back which might be built it to your unit and it disconnects itself as mine do (not needed though). What will cause big problems is if the power does not come on at 60 HZ and full voltage to your house. Voltage can be lower but frequency must match. As an example US Navy nuclear carriers and submarines have special generators that run at 15 HZ output to run the reactor cooling pumps at low speed when the reactor is shut down. They can be run up to 60 HZ if needed in an emergency BUT it has to be 60! On the USS Bainbridge CGN25 the # 2 electrician control panel was going to use the Rx cooling generator to allow the normal ships generator to be shut down. He thought he had raised the frequency and the meter showed a match but it was at 15 HZ and when he through the breaker switch it made the whole stern of that cruiser jump and burned up the breaker and exciter for the generator! What a mess. So frequency has to match.