I'm no expert....so others can chime in...but 9v to any 12v automotive actuated device is not good....you may have found the source of the issue.
Starting at the switch and working back to the solenoid should provide results on where a problem could be.
The switch should have around 12-14v going to the solenoid. So at every connection point until you get to the solenoid you should be able to verify voltage.
Correction.....its actually the 14 pin connector near the rear fuse panel that needs voltage verification.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalSK8r
Good input - I haven't toyed with the 11 wire plug in the engine so I'll check that out next.
I'm wondering if the fact that I'm only getting 9V to the yellow wire is my main issue. I'll try doing some measurements at the ignition switch, and then run a new yellow wire to see if that resolves the issue.
Chasing down electrical issues is about as much fun as having a wet fart in a snow suit.
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