Quote:
Originally Posted by sc
I'm no expert....so others can chime in...but 9v to any 12v automotive actuated device is not good....you may have found the source of the issue.
Starting at the switch and working back to the solenoid should provide results on where a problem could be.
The switch should have around 12-14v going to the solenoid. So at every connection point until you get to the solenoid you should be able to verify voltage.
Correction.....its actually the 14 pin connector near the rear fuse panel that needs voltage verification.
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I'm with you.... Bentley says as long as you have over 7V you are fine. I'm using a high quality DMM so there's no doubt in my measurement BUT I do agree that it should be very close to the same as the battery voltage so that's what I'm zoning in on at the moment (well, tonight anyway)