My buddy Kirk Bierke and I started surfing in 6th grade 1970 in Redondo and Palos Verdes.
He has shaped boards since 8th grade. he did 20 years shaping/surfing the North Shore Hawaii then met and married a Aussie gal and had some kids then moved to Australia.
His son Russell is a Big Wave Rider now. Check this video of his kid 11/7/18 at Nazare
Bierke said; "This was by far my longest hold down ever! I barely got a breath before the second wave landed on me. Felling pretty sore today, got a good whiplash when I skipped in front of the wave, but no injuries which is good," Bierke told Pedro Mirando, the filmer of the clip above. "Felt like I could barely walk up the beach when I got there.”
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=146&v=3T0yayo7mAU&fbclid=IwAR0XHeUxFyvajYOH3OtGqkldKbCgrlcZAxXN6E02-zyN9Oc1Bz1ZfA5CSZE