Quote:
Originally Posted by seafeye
Just looking into the engine compartment. Do you need the fuse panel metal bracket? Can you just mount the coils to the side of the engine bay?
+1 on the “R” hinges. The strut and factory hinges seem to be excessive.
Now we are talking ounces here.
How about the bracket that the MSD ignition is mounted on? Can you just use rubber grommets and mount directly to the firewall?
How about using tie wraps instead of the metal/rubber hold down clamps?
Can you remove the rear brake lights and use just 1 lightweight LED light each side?
Remove the headlights and front turn signals?
911R rear quarter windows
Remove the door and rear side window trim bits.
Smaller alternator will increase HP.
I didn’t mention drilling holes in anything. It’s always an option. But I’d stick to doing things that wouldn’t permanently change the car.
You can drill the clamps that hold the coils.
Or anything that’s a type of bracket. Like the dead foot pedal. Might be lighter yet if you remove the bolts and just do a spot weld.
Engine mount can be an RSR design and drilled. Those factory engine bolts are heavy. Can you source titanium? $
How about the stud on top of the engine fan? File 13?
I think the factory at some point just used felt for the dash.
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This is good advice and much of the things on the list above are included in my plan.
I do want to try and keep the car period correct , i.e Ti bolts etc weren't something used back in the day....that being said I do use a newer battery etc. This car has some earlier race history and a very interesting history. Look for a story on the car in an upcoming Excellence issue
Cosmetically I would like to keep it close original, which means chrome trim stays but lexan 911R windows are on the list. Also I would liketo avoid drilling
as it is time consuming with minimal gains. Again that being said it will and has happened on certain parts.