Thanks a lot fellas!
Driven, I have to admit that dangling cv joints annoy me! It probably doesn’t matter much, but I’ll take your advice and install them first. Also, I’ve never had a problem tightening the nuts on top of the shocks, but you and Shadow are probably right about that also – will do!
Juan, good tip on lowering the car. I don’t think my RV lift would go high enough to install the engine.
Jeff, the engine tins (what some guys call ‘pans’ ) will go on first. What I meant by ‘skirts’ are the rubber pieces that surround the inside of the engine bay; to keep the weather out. I’m not sure whether to replace them or not, but it might be hard to do with the engine installed.
I probably shouldn’t have mentioned the rubber skirts, since they’re not part of a normal engine in/out. They were on my mind and I wrote them down without thinking. Sorry for that confusion.
I do not have a ‘written check-list’ – but I think I’ve gotten to most everything. Still, if it’s not inconvenient I’d enjoy seeing yours. It might also be helpful as a future reference for others.
By the way, Jeff, that photo with the tail-lights illuminated makes it look like you’re about to, throw ‘er into reverse and back onto the engine! That’s pretty good driving, if you can hit the bolt holes dead nuts center!! :-)
Rod wrote: “Everything that was attached to the motor when you pulled it should be on it before installing.” – Well, Rod... pretty close… I’ve got everything except for the parts in that box labeled... ‘I wonder where this went?’... Just kidding! :-)
Mike, thanks for the reminder on the You-tube video. I’ve been using Craig D’s thread for reference and haven’t spent a lot of time with the video. I’ll look at it tonight. Here’s Craig’s thread
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/726309-78-sc-elephant-racing-suspension-rebuild-22.html
You guys have been wonderfully helpful. Based on your advice I’m going to change my tack and install the shocks and CV joints. I’ll do that while I wait for that right-side heater valve/hose clamp that’s holding everything up.
Today I visited my paint supplier and he mixed me up a rattle can of Glacier Blue Mettalic. I’ve been cleaning and touching up the engine compartment. A slow solvent, like toluene or paint thinner, seemed to work best on that tar-like gooey foam that clings to the inboard side of the torsion bar tube.
Working on that got me thinking on two questions:
1) Should I install new foam between the torsion bar tube and the cabin? Was the gooey-foam intended to keep the weather out of the engine compartment? I’ve done some nifty things with ‘pool noodles’ on my band-saw! What do you think of a custom cut pool noodle to seal that area?
2) Should I rebuild, re-grease, or do whatever one does, with my CV joints before I install them? They weren’t causing me any problems, so I was going to put them back into the car exactly as the came out. I haven’t had time to read up on CV joints and would appreciate a push in whichever direction I should be headed.
As always, you guys are great! I don’t know how I’d get these project done without your help!
Robert