|
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Dahlonega , Georgia
Posts: 15,207
|
I believe chemically stripping is your best bet , due to the age of the windows be careful it may be lead based paint . I believe " aircraft stripper " is still considered some of the strongest available over the counter . It has a nasty smell to it but it works . You will probably have to attack this in multiple coats . First coat put it on heavy , let it do its thing in a shaded area and then scrape with metal putty knife or scraper . Second coat you might get by with coarse steel wool as your scraper . At this point you can " spot strip " areas that are stubborn . At some point you will say " that looks good enough " and then you can start sanding .
If you also plan to R&R the glazing that would be next to tackle . As mentioned earlier electric heat is the way to go but you still have to be extra careful . Try to direct the heat to aprox. 1/2 the height of the glazing and up so more towards to wood frame . You will quickly get a feel for how long to hold the heat and then scrape with metal putty knife . You should uncover some type of push points that are holding the glass in , they can be stiff triangular wires or flat sheet style . I would NOT bother with those , if they are holding the glass in just re-glaze . Good luck with the project .
__________________
2002 Boxster S . Arctic silver + black top/int. Jake Raby 3.6 SS engine " the beast ". GT3 front bumper, GT3 side skirts and GT3 TEK rear diffuser. 1999 996 C4 coupe black/grey with FSI 3.8 engine . Rear diffuser , front spoiler lip with ducktail spoiler .
|