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I'd try the smaller diameter M/C on the front, larger on the rear. Put whatever adjuster you're using in the center of it's travel. Go drive the car at operating temps and see which end locks first. Then adjust accordingly until the fronts lock momentarily before the rear. At least that's what we did on symmetrically set up road racing cars.
Maybe on a dirt oval car it's advantageous to be able to turn the car with a locking rear brake. That makes panic stops an adventure however.
To adjust in the garage we'd lift the car, have someone modulate the brake, and then give the wheel a bear hug until the fronts would just be locked, then go to the rear and the rear should drag, but still turn slightly. That would indicate more bias to the front.
Then paint/chalk vertical marks on the tire sidewall, put the car on the track and have an assistant watch what locks first and adjust accordingly.
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