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I'd try a different approach. If he passes muster in all your other categories, I'd hire him.
A reformed criminal is going to tell you he's reformed. An unreformed criminal is going to tell you the exact same thing. So, why ask?
My experience has been that people who know that you know will sometimes bring it up themselves and present an explanation, which is fine. Other people who now that you know will not bring it up, but will work to show you they are worth your trust. That's better.
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