Quote:
Originally Posted by bjersr
So I don't want to start a big argument, but want to know the truth. I just did a clutch job on my 03 996. Found after disassembly the pressure plate went bad. The actual clutch disk was worn but not too bad and the release bearing seemed fine as well. Because of the bad pressure plate the flywheel had significant discoloration on it so changed it as well. RMS was leaking so changed it also. It has a replacement engine due to a prior IMS bearing failure and had an 05 or later factory reman engine. The kind where the IMS bearing can't be replaced unless you disassemble the engine.
So here's the question. Are the flywheel bolts on the 996 torque to yield bolts? one time use kind of things. Yes I know it's a good idea to replace them. Yes I know the instructions on this site says always replace them. Yes I know it's cheap insurance. I have a PDF file factory service manual and it does not say you have to replace them. It does say in other areas when you must replace a particular bolt but not for the flywheel. Also it gave an actual torque value for the bolts themselves (63 ft/lbs)not the torque to 19 ft/lbs and then an additional 90 or 120 degrees. I ended up buying new factory bolts because I didn't want to wait for them to be shipped to me. I'm just wondering if anyone actually knows if they are TYB (torque to yield bolts) or not. From my research most torque to yield fasteners are undercut in the shank portion, these bolts are not. I asked the parts counter guy at the dealership and he did not know. If and when I do the job again I will probably change them again, but I was just wondering if they were TYB or not.
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Yes, they are torque to yield bolts, and should
NEVER be reused. In fact, none of the pressure plate or flywheel bolts should be reused due to the loads on them. And the correct torque on the flywheel bolts are 19 ft. lbs. plus 120 degrees. If anyone reused the bolts, I would tell them seriously consider taking it apart again and doing it correctly. Very risky...………..
You could also prep the engine as though you were doing an IMS (locked at TDC, cams locked, tensioners removed) and then pry out the rear seal on the oversized IMS bearing, which would give it continuous lubrication.
Both of the above are cheap insurance, and should be done on any car that is apart.