Quote:
Originally Posted by darrin
Agree! The maf setup in the OP's photo is quite similar to the one I have and, when mine suffered from a nearly identical problem, cleaning the gunk that had deposited on the hot wire brought my car back to normal. Per the OP's explanations, sounds like it may have been quite a few miles (if ever) since the Hotwire was cleaned -- mine's cleaned (and found to be dirty) at every valve adjustment
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimNiceBut
I'm pretty sure it's been more than a few miles since it's been last cleaned, so that makes a lot of sense. I also don't have a ton of faith in the installation of the MAF, but I'm guessing it must've worked properly at some point.
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I pulled the MAF out last night. I'm a bit surprised by the setup - this is the unit with the filter removed:
The odd thing is that the "outlet" of the MAF is just this tiny gap in the center of the picture. I thought these things needed more airflow than that. Only way I noticed the gap as being "open" was because that was where the MAF cleaner dribbled out after I blasted the sensor with it.
The filter was dirty, but fortunately no oil on the filter - it specifically states on the filter that you're not supposed to oil it. Washed the filter and let it dry for 24h.
When I pulled out the sound deadening mat that had come loose as they always do, I found someone had stuffed a filter on the breather hose that would normally go into the airbox and chucked it behind the other lines in the back (well, front) of the engine bay. Class, but a quick zip tie sorted that out:
I also checked the coil with a multimeter - the input side of the coil came in at 0.8Ohms (Bentley manual says 0.4-0.6), output side at 6.5kOhm, which is in spec. I'm guessing the coil has aged but doesn't seem to terribly out of spec. Not great, but at least it's the correct coil.
Put the whole shebang back together, but unfortunately it's still got the same symptoms. I may kid myself into them being a little less pronounced but they're still there.
It also came up with something new - when I held the throttle open at about 2000rpm, I noticed that it started smoking a bit out of the heater connector hose (the one that is hooked into the electric fan in the engine bay). Keep in mind this car has the old-style heater setup as it's got SSIs on there. It does have me a tad worried because it would suggest that something managed to get into the heat exchangers - I'm pretty sure that it's not supposed to be oily in there. I guess I can now add "pull headers" to the growing list. Still not quite sure how I would diagnose this problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by darrin
If your passenger door switch works, it too should disable the power window circuit and let you determine if the drain is gone
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I checked both doors and it doesn't look like either one triggers the interior light. Am I correct in assuming that if I turned off the ignition, pulled the key and opened/closed the doors, the electric windows should be turned off? If that's the case I think I have a bad relay as they stay on. I also noticed that the voltage at the battery appears to be only about 13.5V at idle, which is a tad low for my liking.