[TimNiceBut]

In between fixing up stuff the local motorcycle dealer touched, trying to get out of the house for a bit and emergency repairs to the roof of my shop, not much has happened.

I did clean some more electrical contacts, rechecked the distributor cap and noticed the contacts in the cap look slightly "burned", but nothing similar on the rotor. Either way, no damage in there so I put everything back together. Then cleaned up the contacts in the front fuse box with some electrical contact cleaner, basically starting carefully before going to more abrasive methods of cleaning. Oh, and for my amusement I unplugged the NB O2 sensor.

Result - it still pops a bit at cold idle, but while the oil temperature is in the lower white zone and a bit above, it runs almost perfect. Pulls up our driveway in 2nd gear at 2k rpm with no fuss (which is has never done before). Looks like dumping in more fuel because it went to a safe map helped. Of course I had to explore this a bit more and took it for a longer drive. The more the engine bay heated up (keep in mind the cone filter is in exactly the wrong spot and the heater elbow in the engine bay isn't hooked up right now), the more it ran like it used to. This culminated in driving up towards our house and getting misfires again in third gear around 3k-ish. But even with that, it does run a lot better with the O2 disconnected. Nevertheless, heat is a definitive factor here, which also explains why it ran noticeably better when I originally got the car in January. I'm still wondering if the MAF conversion did away with the intake temp sensor and the ECU now just assumes a random temperature.

The plan for now is two swap out the plug leads as they are of an indeterminate age and I have a set already, even if I don't like the fitment. Oh, and hook up the heater elbow again to keep some hot air out of the engine bay. Depending on the outcome of that I may have to test the fuel pressure and also look at the battery voltage while driving.