Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeke
The construction of the blade is designed to rest on a wider cut. The theory states that a minimum of 3 teeth should be 'in the cut'. The materials and cuts suggested on the label of the blade in question say thick cuts and then some materials it will handle. As we know, there are no examples of thin cast iron. So then, the tooth count is too spaced out for hot or cold rolled mild steel in any gauge and fractions up to 1/4 inch. And 8 divided by 4 is 2 so that's iffy at best. The tooth per inch on that blade says 8 where you need 10 to 14. It will hang up and jar the hell out your arm.
I eventually broke an old American made Milwaukee Sawzall (circa 1990) by abusing it and letting it hang up. I fixed the reciprocal action once and it broke again within the month so I tossed it. Now I have the newer Milwaukee but because of my new shoulder I'm afraid to use it much and I'm very careful about blade selection. So I have studied on that a bit.
Also that blade has carbide teeth and they are too brittle for general use. If the number of teeth resting in the cut are less than than three (2.5 at the absolute minimum), they will snap off. You then have wasted your money. On the flip side, if you try and cut cast iron with a bimetal blade with 14 TPI, bring your lunch.
|
OK thanks for explaining that to me, Milt. There is a science to how tools and equipment work and I'm always interested in the details.
I hope in time your shoulder gets closer to what it should be in terms of strength and endurance.
