What I had not calculated (ignorance from airplanes) is that the engine had no bearing on the crank so no continuous lubrication was required. Maybe in a second time I will make a conversion, mount (if I find it) bearings and remove the crank by replacing it with some 6mm long screw on which I will fasten the propeller. We'll see.
On the back plate I fastened and screwed an aluminum plate with a hole in the center, I put a 5mm long screw and passed with some spacers, an arm to hold the electric motor and a piece of plexiglass to support the ‘’ fuel tank’’. The engine was supposed to be powered by fuel. I could have put 2 silicone tubes and a plastic container and connected them to the engine and the exhaust but ……
This… but… is the headache because I had to find something that fits.
Two solid 6mm thick aluminum antenna TV tubes took the appropriate length and angles and connected the carburetor and the exhaust to the source from a car A / C pipe fittings along with a old WEBER carburetor float assy by Renault 5 Alpine and I had to change to 2 double 45 Weber.
I thought that instead of having the 220 v-12v adapter constantly plugged in, even if the fan didn't work, camouflage it all over the frame (on an aluminum base) and turn it on when I want it with an On-Off switch, so with a 2 meter bipolar cable from the power outlet to the switch (and the adapter) would be better. From thought to application, however, there has been some time spent researching mainly on finding a new 1000 mA transformer-adapter (approx) but in small dimensions, something like a cell phone charger and from which I would just hold the board to better hide it. Internet research showed a cost of 3-4 euros and a local store 7 euros.
It was not the 7 euros but the behavior of the shop that prevented the purchase. Searching the warehouse again found a transformer (maybe from some old TV or video recorder, I don't remember) but it was AC and so with a rectifier bridge the current was converted to DC to work the motor. The good thing was also that the transformer had 3 cables output and 1 and 2 amp voltage so I added an ON-OFF-ON switch so that I could branch off to the motor and have 2 different rotational speeds. The test was successful and now I had to 'hide' the transformer beautifully. The old Pierburg petrol electric pump 72196004 from SLK provided a portion of its outer cylindrical aluminum housing and concealed the transformer and rectifier bridge along with a capacitor.
Many tests were carried out to enable the transformer group to find a point, visually satisfactory, where it would determine its final position. My idea came from a futuristic Honda project. So with 2 triangular bases of plexiglass and 2 springs to dampen any oscillation and resonance, it was positioned at the front bottom and behind the propeller. At this point it will also have a better ventilation-cooling and temperature elimination. Unnecessary details will tell but it does not matter. When you are making something you have to have the imagination, but with the danger of being labeled in the end and… imaginative.