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Absolutely - you have to do it loaded. And not just dropped down off a hoist/jack stands. Torsion bars take a bit to settle. But it is a simple adjustment as long as you have a decent way to measure it. So you can check and adjust 2-3 times if needed to get it close. One of the times a pit would beat a hoist. When you hoist the car you get heaps of + camber - so far from where you are trying to go = useless.
What you can do is slide part under car to the adjuster bolt and tweek it, then roll the car back/foward a turn or two to let the wheel find the new setting - take the load out of the tyres. Then measure and adjust again. Repeat til satisfied. You ahve the spring plate height adjust bolt - the large thin one near the front of spring plate. Then the camber adjust is the rearward one - pretty sure.
A bit of search should tell you which way to go to reduce camber. I can do some pics and better instructions early next week when I get back to car and manuals. I have changed my adjuster to Elephant race unit - gets more camber. So I will have to refresh the memory as to which way does what.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
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