Mark brings up a good point. I didn’t address this because there are so many cars and situations. There are some common issues.
You need to jack and support your car at the strongest points. NEVER EVER jack it on flat sheet metal. There are sheet metal jacking points that are suitable but it requires special precaution and pads.
Best are the suspension and suspension mounting points. The side jack points are suitable if used with the correct tools (jack-pads).
In front the front A-arms are best. Use the cylindrical part that contains the torsion bar and toward the rear. This allows the jack stand saddle a firm location. Supporting on the arm near the ball joint is asking for slipping.
The area of the sheet metal chassis just behind the front wheels is also a possibility. Great care must be exercised here. There are the oil pipes and A/C hoses to contend with. If there is ANY sign of rust, do not use. Best cushion is a piece of soft pine wood, cut to slightly clear the weld rib.
The side jack points are commonly used. Keep in mind, there are close to the fore-aft center of gravity. Lifting here lifts half of the weight of the car at each point. While strong, they are attached to the sheet metal. If there is any rust, consider these for emergency use only.
Mark above has the jack positioned correctly. If you position the jack perpendicular to the side of the car, there is the risk of the jack not rolling during the lift and it will pull the jack point out of the receiver in the car.
It is advisable to have an extra jack and a few stands. If you get the car in an incorrect situation, you can easily recover.
The rear torsion bar tube just inboard of the sheet metal frame is the strongest part of the car. You have to contend with sway bar mounts and the fuel pump (’71-’75) on the left.
The torsion bar- spring plate is the easiest strong support. It is possible for a stand to slip off the end so be careful. There are clearance concerns with the oil pipes and thermostat in the right rear. More so with all ‘72s.
In the rear it is common to jack the car using the steel engine mount at the rear of the engine (don’t dent the muffler) or the transmission mount. Some use the sheet metal at the rear of the tunnel but this can damage the sheet metal (and interfere with shifting) without a proper wood interface.
Lightweight cars seem to tolerate jacking on an aluminum crankcase with a wood interface. Avoid the case split and sump plate. Never jack a car on a magnesium crankcase.
I am not familiar with all the under-pan jacks. I suspect all the same issues apply. I would still use four good jack stands.
Best,
Grady