[IdahoDoug]

If you've disassembled it, then you have the skills to do the rebuild. Your description of the wear on the bearings (some, not all) is the quintessential indicator the crank is fine and you could get a fresh set of bearings and put them in yourself. Yes, I'd plastigage to check things on install and its easy to adjust the tighter bearings with steel wool on the back side of the bearings to slightly thin them to get the oil clearance into the range. If you find any that are tight.

On rings, you also can do this as you asked from the perspective of knowing its the end gaps that matter. I'll assume you are going to put new rings in? If so, there is something I'm not sure of before I tell you this is also doable. I understand our blocks have a coating that complicates a simple hone for new rings. If this is not the case, or the experts say a simple hone is allowable, then I'd call the Ball Hone folks and ask them which product is right for your engine. These days honing is so simple that this weekend I will have my college age daughter do a couple cylinders on an engine just so she can say she's done it. A bonus for being home due to Coronavirus. So if its a green light to hone and put new rings in, that's not difficult either.

So far, I've just been cheerleading that you can do this, simply because I'm no expert and I've rebuilt a couple engines successfully like this when I opened them and they were clearly not stressed.

On the cylinder measurements, I borrowed a sweet internal bore measurement tool from someone and did the 6 measurements (two at bottom, two at mid, two at top) to confirm there was no bore wear. So if you can borrow one, do that. I bought a set at Harbor Freight and they were good enough to correspond with the borrowed tool (a very expensive one used in aerospace). So I think you can also handle this task.

As for the block deck, I've resurfaced a few with a slab of marble and sandpaper where I had stripped the block and could clean out all the abrasive. Sounds like you are in this position as well. It's laughably simple and I admit the first time you do it you are sitting there thinking "really?" "am I going to do this?" Yes. With a flat slab and sandpaper you will immediately see the imperfections and then see it turn into a beautiful flat surface. A cast iron block is nearly idiot proof, aluminum requires a lot finer sandpaper and methodical technique simply because its softer.

I am literally doing a Toyota Supra project car's block in real time (it's in the front hallway right now) and would be glad to lead you through this. These days with plastigage and the new ball hones is is MUCH simpler than the old days. I say go for it and suprise and delight yourself. I can tell simply by reading your post you have this.