Quote:
Originally Posted by LWJ
Yes. The jig. Make sure you cut so as not to splinter the end out. Take small cuts.
|
^This- If you use a router, experiment first with the router wider than the final cut.
Way wider on the first run, to avoid damage from unpleasant surprises.
From this, you will gather how the wood reacts to the cut.
Does it cut nicely? Does it chip and splinter?
As you come in closer to the jig line, you will have a strategy as to how to tackle the final cut.
Sometimes I will "knaw out" wood in a reverse cut direction so the router doesn't grab and shred the wood to get me into position for the final cut.
If in doubt- go reverse.
If it is a really testy wood, (curly woods, or 1/4 sawn) I might (edit- WILL) reverse cut the whole thing
Point being- use "practice cuts" on a larger diameter to see how the router/ wood reacts before you get to the critical final cut radius.
Second point being- reverse cuts (with router) are safe
Third point- the second point trumps the first point. Just go in from reverse direction. Don't give router blade a chance to dig in and 'catch' an edge and tear it.
ps- the pine in that pic looks flat sawn and relatively safe- but this will help anywhere