Yesterday the resin had cured and I was able to do start preparing the dash for the next step, filler and final shaping.
When you look at some of other folks' efforts (threads, YouTube etc) you see what must be disappointing results, mostly based on the insufficient contouring and final shaping. This generally has two elements: the getting the broad contours correct, then detailing around the openings, such the central speaker cover (which others have deleted), the HVAC controls and vent openings. It is the latter which concerns me more.
BTW, the dark spots are from rain drops, after I stepped outside to blow off the sanding dust with compressed air.
Since the resin used with the FG cloth is much harder than the filler I'll be using next**, (obviously) I have to make sure that I've removed as much resin in these key areas as possible, so it's not left to interfere with final shaping. This is easier said than done, and if I were to do this on another dash (not a job for which I'd readily volunteer), I'd mask those openings more thoroughly. In the meantime, I'll need to do much fine sanding and filing, while repeatedly test-fitting the aforementioned pieces to verify progress. As said, not the work of a few minutes: take too much material away and you're back to square one, mixing more resin.
Regarding the filler I'll be using, I've said I'd need to use a flexible filler, as opposed to a "regular" polyester filler, such as
Evercoat Rage. But now I'm thinking about it, by glassing those surfaces that'll need reshaping, I've probably removed the flexible concern and am preparing to use Rage filler, then Evercoat Polyflex, a two-part spot putty/fine-build filler.
Yesterday I reached out to
SEM to ask a couple of questions about their products, which I plan on using. Their regional rep reached out and was genuinely helpful.
- Texture Coating: once the "bodywork" is completed, I'll shoot the whole thing in epoxy primer, let it cure for a few days than add
SEM Texture Coating, of which I plan on buying a quart, as opposed to aerosols. This material does not use a catalyst nor is it thinned. I will not be attempting to replicate the faux-leather embossed vinyl look, but rather, a uniform ... textured look.
- Do I used SEM's "Color Coat" or "Classic Coat"? Their website shows both. The SEM rep told me to use [Color Coat, which I can get custom tinted at a local jobber. He said
SEM Color Coat is the more durable finish for a rigid or semi-rigid surface (like a dash or trim panel), whereas
SEM Classic Coat is designed for more flexible surfaces, especially the thin leather in use in today's cars. Like Texture Coating, Color Coat is not catalyzed or thinned.
_ How do I get the satin/low gloss look I want? I'll need to finish off the repair with
SEM Low Luster Clear.
All of these products I'll likely shoot thru a detail gun.
I have a good jobber (wholesale bodyshop materials supplier) who carries and mixes SEM products close by, and plan on taking a couple of pieces of dash vinyl and a door panel to them for the best possible match.
But between now and then, I will have much sanding (and vacuuming/clean-up) to do.
I hope you are all healthy and safe. As always, your feedback is welcomed and encouraged, even if just to say hello.
John