While something was drying (likely filler), I addressed the dash center vents, whose foam was decayed and becoming, like the song, dust in the wind.
The individual pieces of this assembly actually come apart from one another if handled with some care, and I was able to use closed cell weatherstripping to re-foam them. When things were put back together, and the foam compressed somewhat, the result was tidier than these pictures suggest.
When things were put back together, and the foam compressed somewhat, the result was tidier than these pictures suggest.
While it was only five days ago (Saturday; today is Wednesday) when I started the body-filler process, it seems like longer. Lots of sanding ... and then some more.
Great tip from Jim Tweet: gently pre-heat your filler for ease of mixing. It works!
A couple of observations:
1. Today's fillers are so much better than what I remember from the 1980's, mainly in how much easier they sand.
2. That said, back in the 80's when I was trying to become a restorer of fine automobiles (I did try), I was literally having to buy sandpaper by the sheet and
never had enough,
or the correct range of abrasives/cuts. So now, with a full kit from Norton Aftermarket Division, I'm in hog heaven. and wouldn't wish this job on anyone without the right supplies.
These photos are from this afternoon, and I believe it's at the right stage for me get a couple of good coats of epoxy primer on, after which I'll use a finer, finishing filler to clean-up any details before I move to the SEM Texture Coat and Color steps.
One last note:
What's the worst part of doing this kind of bodywork, i.e., using polyester filler? The dust you create ... it is such horrible stuff, as others well know, and awful for one's health (I wear a mask). The best collision shops today know this and use sanding tools connected to a strong source of vacuum and special sandpaper, from Norton or 3M, with holes that allow the sanding waste to be immediately captured, without getting anywhere other than the collection tub: not on the shop floor, in the car's nooks and crannies, in the technician's lungs.
Some shops use a centralized vacuum and collection system, but I think a much neater - and economical - solution are these individual work-stations. In Hartford, Connecticut, one such shop is Airport Road Autobody, which is certified by BMW/MINI, Jaguar, Ford (including aluminum for both), VW and LandRover ; it's a large facility and ... the whole facility is absolutely spotless. Each technician has one of these Norton machines** and there is
no dust. I've been constantly cleaning my work area throughout this dash job (garage is connected to the house, you enter and are immediately in the kitchen ... ), so I want one, with all the tools designed to work as part of its closed-loop system!
** You may ask, is this guy a shill for Norton Aftermarket /Abrasives? No, I'm not. I do work in the automotive industry and get to see new products in the Collision and Mechanical repair businesses. There is so much cool new stuff available.
I also have a (non-business) friend who works for Norton on their industrial support side, and when I was first working on my 911, obtained a care-package of their sandpapers, grinding disks and polishing materials. It's excellent stuff and has aided me to significantly raise my game; I've hoarded it like bullion.
The other superb choice is 3M; these two companies are kind of the Coke and Pepsi of the industry. So if you're doing any work requiring such items, my advice is to buy pro-grade supplies from one of these two companies and to avoid the false-economy of lesser quality items, including those sold at big box stores. Just my two cents.
John