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Back to basics here, guys. He said that he refreshed the suspension. If that included R&R torsion bars, there's a chance that they weren't clocked correctly. You could adjust the ride height to make the car's stance "look right," but that doesn't tell the whole story.
There's a reason why we "scale" race cars. And as pointed out above, the corner balance could be off and affect braking and handling. And make sure that your floor is level before hand.
Getting left side or rear weight to move requires physically moving weight around the car, but if a spring or torsion bar is off, it will show up in the cross weight (LF and RR heavier or lighter than RF and LR). If you want to do it right, you'll need to temporarily disconnect the front and rear sway bars by unbolting one end link from each sway bar to avoid any binding of the bar, then rolling the car back and forth to settle the suspension. The final operation would be to reinstall the end link bolts, with said bolts easily going back into position (i.e., NO hammering, binding, or spinning in with an impact gun).
If there's a few percentage points of cross weight (AKA "wedge") in the car, it'll handle better in one direction than the other. If you're racing, you can use this to your advantage. If it's a street car, it would likely be better to avoid much cross weight in order to make the handling more predictable.
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