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Walt Fricke Walt Fricke is offline
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 7,276
What do you mean - hooked up the AFR meter at WOT, got the car to WOT (wide open throttle)? This is driving it on the road? Or reving it in the garage to 5,000 rpm with no load? This is confusing. Remember, you set the idle AFR or the CO with the little hex screw with the O2 sensor disconnected.

However, you should not have cold start problems. I'd look at the thermotime valve, and the cold start valve. If the TTV isn't working, the CSV won't do its thing. That might have something to do with the starting problem. The CSV only squirts its extra fuel for a very short while.

The slow warm up/sluggish driving could be something else. There are two temperature sensors, one on the right chain housing cover, and one in the engine vent cover (harder to get to). They tell the ECU whether your engine/oil is over X degrees, and then over X+Y, for warm and then hot running. I am dubious that those sensors fail - just a resistance element with no moving parts - but worth checking, especially to see if the wiring is right.

Then there is the WUR. To check that you need the control pressure measuring gauge tool. Control pressure, as the engine warms up, is supposed to increase (which means the fuel distributor leans out the fuel delivery). As is easy to see looking at a diagram of the WUR, a spring strip depresses the WUR's main spring (which pushes up against a diaphragm valve, and controls how much control pressure is bled off) when cold, reducing the effective main spring pressure and richening the mixture. As the spring heats up (it has its own electric heater) it reduces its pressure on the spring, and when fully warm it is simply out of the way.

Which is why you first check cold control pressure. Then warm. You want both of them to be within the pressure specification band.

In addition to the gauge setup for checking control pressures, and an ohmeter for checking the TTS and circuitry generally, you should download and print from the factory manual the two pages of the wiring diagram which show the ecu/lambda etc system.

That's pretty nifty that you have a Gunson as well as an AFR meter. Somewhere out there there is a conversion table: If CO is X, AFR is Y. Lets you double check things.
Old 08-24-2020, 07:30 PM
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