[chrismorse]

I had a pumped 2.4 type 4 engine in my 72, with a lightened wheel and an aluminum S clutch. When I let up a little too quick, I could stall it occasionally, but that engine revd up quick, very responsive. Loved the car. Turn the car off and the engine came to an immediate stop.
Had a stripped auto x speedster, SC 140 hp, 6/31 with a stock clutch and a lightened wheel lots of ttods with it, again, very responsive.
2 Toyota and one Datsun work trucks with stock clutches and aluminum wheels, very little stalling or difficulty on hills, but noticeable improved throttle response.
308 Ferrari, 16 pound wheel cut down to 8, stock iron pp small improvement, but noticeable.
74 911 .2.7, still on the lift, but getting a 6.25 pound RSR wheel and a Kep 6.5 pound all aluminum PP, high hopes for this one.

For the most responsive, lively engine, you need to do both the wheel and the clutch, the iron foot of the pp and the steel housing carry a lot of inertia.
If your first gear is fairly high and/or the vehicle has a low power to weight ratio, you could experience occasionall stalling.

I really like a responsive car.

Side note: some poo poo the light wheels, pointing out that on a dyno, you see no numerical difference, but that is at a steady state, not a dynamic run. By reducing the rotational inertia that the engine must accelerate, every time it revs, you have that much more power to accelerate the car.

If all you do is dd city driving, it might not be worth it, but if you flog it through the twisties, you’ll love it.
Chris