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Bob Kontak Bob Kontak is online now
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: North Canton, Ohio
Posts: 20,872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyg2 View Post
besides emotional reasons, can anyone tell me WHY the second one should be changed? From a mechanical standpoint I mean.
TIA
Not really with a 30k mile factory strut vs a new factory one.

120k mile factory strut vs brand new, I would say no to only one side new. Would rather get a used one off of a car with 90k miles to have roughly the same dampening rates and spring tension. Mind you, this is for value minded customers. Anybody with money, both changed out, and I would use Monroe loaded (better ones - Quik-Strut) or KYB loaded. Don't do naked ones anymore.

That said, I changed a bad coil pack in a 2002 Tundra and it was then running smooth. Customer said change them all. I push back. "Dude, they're $55 each at my cost. I fixed the problem". He said change them all. Almost $500 plus my work. It was a massive night and day difference in how the engine ran.

I will skin a good side rotor if a frozen caliper ate the other side but it's all subjective based on my perception of what's serviceable. I have micrometers but it's often an eye-ball assessment of the face and how much (Ohio) rust slag is present. Rust slag will rub on new SS inserts you put in the caliper brackets that pads ride in. Is it worth pinging the slag off with a light hammer and sanding to eliminate interference when skinning is $10 (plus driving to drop and pick up) vs $50 for a new rotor?
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Last edited by Bob Kontak; 10-02-2020 at 04:19 PM..
Old 10-02-2020, 04:09 PM
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