Quote:
Originally Posted by john70t
That was an interesting read which I only skimmed.
-It looked like if the light comes on for three seconds and goes off with normal self test, the immobilizer is okay and something else in the ignition/cranking/fuel system is wrong.
-If the light comes on and stays on after three seconds it's a bunk immobilizer. (but I may have read it incorrectly)
You might want to start isolating:
Get a spark plug tester or inductive pickup or perhaps use OBD2 tester to look at firing line and see if there is actual spark or big pulse. It could be as simple as a bad coil.
Get a Noid light for the fuel injector. If it flashes while cranking, the cam/crank sensor and ecu is telling the fuel injector to fire. Those are 'probably' good. That cuts the problem in half.
If electronics and spark is good go on to fuel. Should be able to test line pressure off the schrader valve on the rail if equipped. See if there is bleedoff/leakdown after 5min which indicates leaking injectors or bad check valve. A plugged filter or pickup screen perhaps will cause low delivery pressure.
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The coil packs should be fine, they all working when I did initial work. I did however install new NGK plugs. Maybe all the plugs are bad, will check him with Noid light.
So, Toyota in their great non-wisdom did not provide a test port or even a fuel pressure gauge/sensor. To test you need a SST and connect it by removing a banjo bolt, which requires use of new washer gasketes for the test, and new washer gaskets after removing the tool. As dumb as it comes.
The front of the fuel rails have a bolt in where the initial CNC is done to bore the rail. I will see if I can adapt a sending sensor there so I can just hook up a gauge when needed.
The fuel pump is a-ok (its new). But I cannot see if the fuel pressure regulator is goofy or not, wont be able to know until a pressure test is completed.
The CAM sensor though has me baffled too. Take a look at this:
If I disconnect the cam sensor connector (right behind the radiator hose) and try to start it, ECM does not throw a DTC. <---- odd.
But, OEM wiring diagram shows it a bit different. The diagram shows only two wires sensor side. So what's that 3rd wire for?
HARNESS (female pin connector)
red--------green----green-black
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white-----green--------red
SENSOR (male pin connector, the bottom connector in the sensor pic which connects to harness)
Using ohm meter (quality Southwire DVM, I also have a Fluke, etc) on sensor pins only (switching meter leads on every pin set, etc). Is this a good or bad sensor? Maybe its a powered Hall sensor and not a simple 2-wire coil pickup? "green" below is more like a darker green, etc.
White+ Green- = 0ohm
White- Green+ = 754ohm
Green+ Red- = 451ohm
Green- Red+ = 1126ohm
White+ Red- = 0ohm
White- Red+ = 1892ohm
