Hey Carrpet
I have a successful 930 FrankenCIS with Lambda installation that is working very well. I recently dynoed at 365hp at the wheels, but that was with a 0.8bar WG spring. I've recently swapped that to a 1.0 bar spring as I had a little fuel left on the table. Not only is my boost pressure higher, but it feels like it comes on sooner and stronger. I'm thinking the 0.8 bar spring was cracking open earlier.
I keep promising to do a full write up of the project with all the parts and details, but as of yet only have about 50% of that written up, but with everything I think I'm probably pushing 400hp at the wheels. My gut says there's maybe another few hp left with some more careful tuning esp ignition timing but I'm happy where I am for now.
In addition to the FrankenCIS I also swapped to SC cams, lightweight clutch package, Tial WG with the above spring, RarlyL8 headers and Hooligan exhaust, TurboKraft long neck 1/2 bay intercooler, K27/29 hybrid turbo, and one of the biggest improvements I had my flywheel cut for a 60-2 tooth pattern and am using the microsquirt to control COP ignition as well.
I feel the addition of ignition control in the same package makes a HUGE improvement. The only thing I'd do differently is use 30-1 instead of 60-2. If you aren't going to dig that deep into your power train (I had my tranny out because it needed a refresh and the clutch was worn) then you could lock off your dizzy and use that for a crank position pickup for ignition control.
You don't need throttle position unless you want to do electronic boost control. That was my initial plan but I've decided that's unnecessary. Pity you spent the money on the rebuilt CDI unit as it is totally unnecessary if you can get crank position reliably off your flywheel or dizzy. If you do that, then you can ditch the CDI entirely, and if you use crank pick up remove the dizzy and block off the hole. When you do that, then you can also remove all the vacuum lines, thermo time sensors, Pierburg switches and have a very clean installation.
I did purchase and install the Turbokraft CHT sensor, but I forgot to calibrate before install. However I'd also installed a Denso CLT sensor in the breather cover where the old thermo valve was and it gets oil splash and works just fine for controlling warm up.
I did no fuel head work at all. Pretty sure you could open up the fuel head and lines and use a larger lambda valve and get even more fuel and therefore raise boost, and then get more power. After that I'd consider porting heads. If you're pulling heads to port them you might as well up your displacement and static compression. If you're going to do that.......well, you can see where that leads
AEM would work fine. Pretty sure the fuel pressure would be fine as well, but the one I used was a cheapy off ebay.
I have a boss on the exit of my intercooler for IAT and used the open element GM one. I T'd off one of the throttle body ports for the 3Bar GM Map sensor. I use two, one is doing constant barometric adjustment one is MAP.
PS I grew up in Leamington Spa, Warks and lived in Market Harborough nr Leicester in the late 90's. Silverstone was a regular place to visit with my Dad. I remember watching James Hunt win there in the March in 1975.