Quote:
Originally Posted by gregpark
Industry standard discrepancy is a quarter inch in ten feet. Flatter is better of course but click together is pretty forgiving. High spots are more problematic than low spots. A poured slab is generally not as consistently flat as a suspended wood sub floor. It all depends on how well they troweled it. A quick flash of Feather Finish patching concrete on low spots is easy. Don't use a gypsum based floor stoneing, always a Portland based on a slab.
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How is the concrete guy getting the floor flat? Our guys use a power trowel and it seems like we are always going back and forth with the finisher and installer trying to get it flat. Concrete guys says it's within his specs and the installer says no. Of course, the installer doesn't want any call backs and wants it flat as glass.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregpark
^ not true if done correctly. Floating floors work better than adhered when done right. The loose layed method also eliminates a lot of prep work. The biggest mistake do it yourselfers make is not allowing a quarter inch expansion gap all the way around. When it's all clicked together it becomes a monolithic unit and will expand a bit when summer comes around and can lift the flooring off the floor. Undercut all door jambs and don't cut even one tile tight to the wall
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We always leave a gap for expansion and contraction around the room.