[304065]

Timing Chain and all associated bits $165 from the dealer (with 15% off)
Exhaust Nuts, Exhaust gaskets, Front Crossover Pipe and plugs for the SLS system $173
Cycle Works bearing/sprocket Puller + torque extension for 12 point driveshaft nuts $185
Stainless hardware for crossover tubes fore and aft $8

The gentle reader will recall that I took a grinding disc to the front crossover tube to get the timing chain housing off the front of the motor. On one end of the tube there was no clamp, it had rusted off, and on the other end was a stalagmite of rust. So that needed to be replaced anyway.

The issue with the exhaust nuts on an airhead (as Kurt and others here can tell you) is that over time they corrode in place. I have the special wrench for the finned nuts, but truthfully, I don't expect them to budge, given the history of deferred maintenance '477 enjoyed. So using the same grinding disc I'm going to carefully slit the nuts and remove them with a cold chisel WITHOUT damaging the threads on the cylinder heads (he said).

So that necessitated new exhaust nuts.

It gets better. Once the exhaust nuts come off, then the pipes can come off. I am pretty sure that the headers can be saved, and they should polish up acceptably. The left pipe looks like it was used as a sledgehammer, and the right one has a pretty good dent in it as well as a worm clamp instead of the Factory item. So a replacement set of mufflers may be in the future.

But once the pipes are off, there's the small matter of the right jug leaking down 19% between the intake, exhaust and rings. So once the pipes are off, the only thing holding the head on is removal of the rockers and the head stud nuts.

But once the head is off, it would make sense to pull out the pushrods, lift the cylinder off the engine and replace the pushrod tube seals, which are badly leaking.

At that point it will require discipline to STOP. . . and NOT take the logical next step, which would be to remove the jugs, unfasten the rod bolts and:

Replace Rod bearings
Replace Rod bolts (these are torque-to-yield type)
Inspect small end bushing for wear and check rod for twist
Inspect piston for wear
Hone cylinder with red scotchbrite and engine oil (same as on a 72- 911 motor)
Replace rings
Replace cylinder base gasket

Then whatever needs to be done to the head, can be done. If the valves are obviously burned then it makes sense to send both heads off to Ted Porter's shop for a valve job.

And THAT, my friends, is how they get ya! You start off with the best of intentions and end up with parts all over the country!

Stay tuned as parts come in. . .