[GH85Carrera]

There is a point in many people's lifes that they are in a life or death situation. I think some just give up, and others like you said not today and fight for all they are worth to survive.

Long ago when we lived in Hawaii and I was a 15 year old invulnerable teenager some older boys that were acquaintances, and friends of friends agreed to take me surfing off of Dillingham Airfield on the far western tip of Oahu. I assumed they would do some teaching. We all jumped on the boards and paddled about a mile out to the "good waves" and I stood up, when a few feet and fell off. My board went all the way to shore. And there was no one around. They all went back towards shore.

I started swimming for my life. It was not like swimming in a pool, it was choppy waves, and lots of waves trying to smash me into the coral reef. I just kept telling myself to keep swimming and fighting.

I crawled up on the beach 100% exhausted and one of the boys walked over and asked where is the board. I told him the absolute truth, I did not give a f*ck. It is the closest I have ever come to dying. I was a 15 year old fit teenager and it took all I could do to swim through the ocean waves.