[Walt Fricke]

Dom - parts listed as 63 and 32 should have petrol (gasoline) in them, as they are part of the cold start valve system, which sprays a bit of fuel into the airbox when the starter is engaged on a cold engine.

Does petrol include both gasoline and lubricating oil?

Part 47 (AAR) can get oil into it via part 47's connection the the big air boot 18. Because the oil tank is vented into the boot, and if the oil is overfilled for the cornering loads you induce driving (racing, for instance, sloshes the oil around a lot more than ordinary driving), some of it gets into the intake. Porsche preferred some oil in the intake to having it dribble out onto the ground, which happened with the 2.7s system. Not apt to be a problem to have a film of oil in the AAR.

But a half cup of any fluid in the AAR is way off the charts - something is badly wrong there, but at least it is oil.

What you call the cold start valve isn't - it is the warmup regulator or WUR, also known as the control pressure regulator. The two vacuum type lines are not fuel lines, and ought not to have any fuel (or even oil traces) in them. The lower one applies vacuum to the WUR lower chamber, and the upper one - I am pretty sure, for a ROW '82 SC, just provides filtered atmospheric air to the upper chambeer. The two WUR fuel lines (51 & 61) could only let fuel get into the upper vacuum type hose if the pressure setting diaphragm were ruptured, in which case one might expect the engine wouldn't run, as the control pressures would be way way too low, and the mixture way too rich to ignite.

So be careful about terms - there is the WUR, which controls the fuel counter pressure in the fuel distributor, and thus the air/fuel ratio of the fuel injected into the intake ports, and the cold start valve - which gives an extra squirt of fuel into the distribution manifold (air box underside) when the engine is being started cold. Not the same at all.

To test the WUR you need the fuel pump connected, and a gauge and some plumbing. But it doesn't leak fuel (or oil). There are scads of posts (many on the general 911 forum) on how to test a WUR, how it works, what to do, etc.

The cold start valve is controlled in a couple of ways - it only gets power when the starter is engaged, and then only when the thermo-time switch (upper left corner of the left hand chain box cover) is cold. The TTS has an internal heater - when electrical power is applied it heats up a bimetal strip, which opens. When that is open, the CSV doesn't squirt. When the engine is hot, the same strip is open, so no extra fuel.

You test the TTS by figuring out its circuitry, and testing to see if a) it is open or closed when it should be - an ohmmeter or just a test light or buzzer or other continuity tester. And b) checking the resistance of the heater coil - should be some small number of ohms if good, and an open circuit if the coil is broken.

You might find it helpful to describe how the engine ran before you removed it from the car. If it ran fine, all that might have been wrong was a substantial overfill of oil at some point. Easiest thing for a new 911 owner to do is to check the oil level with the engine cold after sitting overnight, get alarmed, and add enough quarts to bring the level on the stick up to snuff - not realizing that that amount of oil had simply leaked into the engine sump - which is normal.

If it was hard to start, or wouldn't start, or ran poorly, those would be other issues.

Why is it out of the car?