[Mahler9th]

"Move the pivot bolt to the lower hole (center of torsion tube hole) "

Yes, that is what I was trying to convey.

I went through all of this a few years ago.

When I set up my car, I tried a bunch of different configurations to see what camber range/ride height range I could get.

The first try was funny... when I lowered the car onto the set up pads, there was so much negative camber that the tires interfered with the chassis! No rotation of the eccentric was possible to solve that.

Based on my experience, I'd guess that you are not likely to be able to adjust rear ride height and camber to get what you want, unless you re-locate the outer pick up points to the stock location provided on the excellent ERP spring plates..

Even with the plates flipped side to side.

I have not tried to modify a camber eccentric... so I cannot comment on that approach. I imagine whether it will work will depend on the height and camber settings you are trying to achieve.

You can get 911s pretty low without moving the outer and inner pick up points.

When you do move both of them up, there can be clearance constraints if you run coilovers inside the factory cross member.

I have many ride height specs from my set ups and I have also set up Winders car several times.

Our ride heights have been very similar.

Mine has the outer pickup points at stock location choice on the ERP spring plates, and inner pickup points right near stock location as adjusted with pivot boxes. I have coilovers through the stock cross member and I had to "make some clearance" for the springs in there with a BFH.

Winders' car has both inner and outer pickup points moved up with custom spring plates and the pivot boxes on the inside. He has no factory cross member so he has more flexibility than I have. Yet his ride height is about the same.

I don't think that the raising of the pickup points is worth more than a second... but it all adds up when you are trying to optimize.

I even have specs for CV joint height... as Winders has said, when you go low it pays to be mindful of the axles.

Both my car and Winders' car were built by the same person whom has massive experience and expertise.

In Winders' case, the rear geometry is more optimized with 930 arms and outer and inner pick up points moved up. And his rear coilover angle is also more optimized... achievable because there is no factory cross member in the way.

All of those differences are likely a second a lap or perhaps less.... based on observational experience.

Our rear tires are 16 inch diameter slicks that are 14 inches wide. So far they like about 2-2.5 degrees of negative camber for trade off between performance and wear.

Also... if the ERP parts are new to you, I can suggest a set of thin "service wrenches" from Harbor Freight to help adjust toe. And I suggest keeping an eye on that spring plate toe adjustment hardware... there is a reason that SRP recommends red loctite.

I love the fact that I can easily adjust my toe while leaving the camber set.

Good luck.