|
if your metal is clean you do not need a metal wash product.
if it's sandblasted your going to want to sand the sandblasted areas with a 80 or 180 check your TDS to see what they say the best sanding grit is for the product.
personally I'm not a fan of the por product line. it's over priced and only and ok product that takes for ever to get to full cure before you can put anything thing over it. a product that's pretty much equal to what's on the floor pans is SEM rust shield with the rust shield hardener mixed 8 to 1 part hardener. spray two coats 24 hours later you can apply the chip/stone guard over it.
por you apply it and hope that in two weeks it's cured enough to apply stone guard over it.
if it's not 100% cured it will off gas and the stone guard will lift off it.
with the por or sem you would not need epoxy under or over it. with the sem you can just go over it with the stone guard with Por you will need to buy there tie coat to apply another product over it. just more money and time for a product that doesn't give any better rust protection.
with sem all you need to do is scuff it to give it some tooth for the stone guard to bite into. you can use a red scuff pad or 180 to 220 sand paper. personally I use a red pad on a 6" and 3" DA sander then a red pad by hand to get into all the nooks and crannies.
Por is popular because of there marketing so people know the name. SEM markets to only the body and restoration shops so the general public doesn't know much about SEM.
|