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jyl jyl is online now
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Nor California & Pac NW
Posts: 24,867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeke View Post
He is close to the wall AFA load goes. I can see your point if this was over an island.

When I said jacks, I assumed that some custom blocking/frame work would be required. Also, when I lift something heavy like that, I have braces on hand to hold the weight kinda like the stops on a car lift. Take the hood up 18' at a time with a simple car floor jack. I've done it so I know it will work. Too bad throw away 2 x 4's cost a fortune these days as I've bought as many as 10 for a small job like what you are planning.

Since it was mentioned and you confirmed that you will enclose the portion above the hood to the ceiling, I will 2nd the idea of opening up the ceiling.

Also, you may need to check the specs. Most hoods like to be within 36" of the cooktop. And, as you said, 6" beyond the face of the range. I'm 6 feet tall so I put my hood at about 74" off the floor. That's 2" more than they wanted but too effin bad.

You will find that while cooking you lean over a bit anyway, so I could have gotten away with 72" but I think I would have felt crowded.
Range top about 32” above floor (range is sitting on casters). The hood is what they call a low proximity backshelf model, so the lower front lip (where you’d hit your head) is only 14” below the top surface of the hood, while the rear and sides of the hood extend 24” below the top surface. There are also side panels I can install.

I’m 5’ 11”, call it 6” as a round #, so putting the lower front lip 74” high puts the top of the hood at 84”, leaving 20” from top of hood to 108” ceiling. That sounds tight for a block and tackle.

https://www.captiveaire.com/CATALOGCONTENT/HOODS/BD2/SubmittalDrawing.asp?img=drawings/bd-2
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Old 09-13-2021, 08:11 PM
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