Quote:
Originally Posted by stomachmonkey
That’s actually where i’m at.
The cam that disengages / allows the locking bar to engage is not functioning correctly.
I have not pulled the guts yet but it feels like a circlip or retaining mechanism is bad allowing the cam to float and bind. I can see it happening with the cylinder out, just can't see under the cam yet to see what failed or if it's just worn out.
The cam follower attached to the lock cylinder then loses contact with the lobe allowing you to turn the key back to full off but the ignition switch attached to the cam stays in run position.
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Same thing just happened to me. My old locksmith stopped working on 911 ignitions, so now i have two keys for the car
Hadn't thought of cutting the thing apart... that is tempting, but i do like the security of the wheel lock for situations where i'm parked on a hill and have the wheel turned toward the curb. I trust the wheel lock a lot more than my e-brake.