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Originally Posted by KNIGHTRACE
Guys as you may know I try and stay out of these threads................ But in the effort to help people have a good laugh....... Just Kidding... First an answer to GTC. I use DC 111 on all O rings. It conditions the o rings and adds a lot of life to the O rings..
Now for the head stud mystery.....
I sent a client to purchase Supertech studs last week... Look like a good product I have used one set, I do not have a lot of experience with them and on high HP builds I try and stay with what I know to work as clients do not like me to experiment on there car as a championship could be riding on it..
993 TT studs are NOT inferior at all, maybe Supertech are better maybe there not... It does not matter. I would use Supertech to support a small shop that is a Pelican member.
15 years ago I was racing an 3.5 liter turbo motor at 2 bar of boost.. I never had a problem with the 993 TT studs on a motor over 1000 hp...
Back to studs and my experience I have had problems with Raceware and ARP. I would not use either on a build that was much over 300 hp.
I have built MANY turbo motors back in the day and had excellent success with plain steel 2.7 steel studs. Montys motor made 645 HP at the wheels and ran plain 2.7 steel studs for a decade without changing them.
I hope this helps, sorry Henry had covid, I have it now and hope to be back to well in a week, about 50% better and I pray all of this craziness is behind us and we can move forward and start living again.. I am thankful for Pelican and the help it brings to people. BUT It does suck when I see talented people on this forum going at each other, William Knight
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I find it interesting that Winders "master race engine architect" would believe that a production fastener designed to mitigate warranty issues (oil seepage on cool down not a performance enhancement) could not be improved upon by a design criteria that specifically targets the design flaws of this (cascade of failures) stop-gap fastener. Then to ignore the design features that by ease of repetition, would entice the builder to improve consistency of the assembly regimen. Build every engine exactly the same so slight design flaws are easier to identified. Sometimes group-think and fear of change creates a fog of complacency. Even the nut and washer design lack any semblance to situational excellence. A low quality barrel nut designed for speed on an assembly line fails "fastener 101" in engineering school.
As for the "race engine scenario" 95+ percent of all the engines built on this forum are either stock, slightly warmed over and spirited canyon cars. My advise is for those guys who really want their best chance of getting it right. That's why I'm here. 8000 posts designed to help the "one timer" get it right the first time. The suggestion that what works on the track is right for most DYI builders generally does the community a disservice.
William, sorry to hear you got the Rona as well. It's too bad your Padawan saw it necessary to bother you with this non-sense. Rest and be well.