Hi Dennis,
Thanks again for all of your help. I think I have almost narrowed it down but need just a little more help to get to the finish line. I decided to give all my connections a through cleaning as I noticed a little corrosion. I started under the bonnet and even though there was conductivity in all of the fuse connections I cleaned with a combo of a wire brush, files, CRC electronic cleaner and then place dielectric gel. I noted on the fused side of 7 & 8 a fair amount of corrosion within the brass fittings. I then moved to the back and did the same thing. I opened up the two 14 pin connectors and cleaned out the male and female ends, all the connections on the speed switch, rear defogger and the other relay. I had already done the CDI connections. I then checked the ignition switch, pulled off the plug to inspect. All looked good, but I placed some dielectric gel for good measure. I hooked everything back up and to my surprise, the CDI was singing like a choir boy. I go to start up the car and.....it won't turn over. I was about to rip my hair out but I'm already bald. I had previously had a difficult starting problem, but cleaned and placed dielectric on the transmission ground strap, the 2 battery straps and all of the wires coming off the 2 batteries and that solved that problem. I woke up this morning and went though everything again, checking all my connections, removing and reinstalling the 14 pin connectors. After doing this I turned the key to the car and.....it started. I was very happy but...I turned it off and tried to restart it and nothing. I was then thinking an intermittent starter switch problem. I again pulled off the started switch plug. It was getting 12 volts at terminal 30. Plugged it back in.
Then I checked the voltage at the (2) 14 pin connectors in the engine compartment. I don't know the correct names but I think the more forward connector is the Chassis 14 pin and the more rearward the engine 14 pin.
The chassis (forward) 14 pin had no volts at any of the connections with the car key off. With the key in the on position, there was 12 V at 5,12, and 13. When I attempted to "crank" the engine the 1 (yellow solenoid wire) went to 12 V.
The engine (rearward) 14 pin had a constant 12V at 14. The number 1 (yellow solenoid wire) didn't change when I attempted to "crank" the engine but stayed near 0 volts.
I then go to hook everything up and now it is starting again. I started and stopped it 10 times and now it is starting every time.
Questions:
1. What does the 14 pin voltage data tell you?
2. The fact that the chassis (forward) 14 pin connector #1 connection reliably went to 12 V when I attempted to start the car tell us that the ignition switch is ok? It would do this reliably even when the car would not turn over.
3. Is it safe to say the spark problem was caused by resistance due to corrosion. The CDI has been singing loud since I cleaned all the connections.
4. Why do you think the car all of a sudden wouldn't crank? This hadn't been a problem until I cleaned up all the connections. Could it be due to manipulation of the wires on the rear engine harnesses or something to do with the speed switch or another switch on that panel of connectors in the back?
5. The one thing I haven't done is clean the connections to the starter and the solenoid. Could this have something to do with it?
6. What are the 3 relays on the panel. I have no idea what the most forward one is, but I think the middle is the defroster, and the most rear is the speed switch. Could something in the speed switch cause the intermittent starting problem or the findings of the solenoid wire readings above?
7. Is it normal for the engine (rearward) #1 yellow solenoid connection to stay near 0 when attempting to crank the engine.
I am certainly glad it is starting, but I worry about reliability. I think Hagerty's is going to balk at my next tow request.
I have included a picture of the relays and connections in the engine compartment. I have now yet secured them back up but have grounded the plate.
Thanks for any input,
Jeremy
