Thread: Nw Rifle Build
View Single Post
John Rogers John Rogers is online now
Registered
 
John Rogers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: chula vista ca usa
Posts: 5,728
I am not sure if I posted this hint in my earlier posts but this may help any ways. To make a guide for the barrel escutcheons get a piece of 4in x 4in aluminum angle and smooth all edges then use it to sit on top of the top barrel flat and down beside the side of the barrel and mark how far down the dovetail is, how wide the under lugs are and the middle of each under lug. Use a drill press and drill some very small holes so that when you put the barrel in place use your home made guide and have it so the new holes are along side the fore stock. Use a pin drill or something that can make some really small holes that go straight across the fore stock, no tilting , ETC. Inlet the other parts as necessary so that the barrel will be held down tightly. The areas where the barrel under lugs go can be cut out with one of your super sharp chisels, slightly bigger than the actual lug sine all that stuff does is to keep the barrel from flying UP. The movement aft is handled by the tang against the stock. With that type of tang always bounce the rifle slightly on the butt stock so it makes a dull sound and has no gap.

I would also recommend checking the hammer assembly and trigger assembly to make sure wherever any metal to metal rubbing occurs, the metal is polished like a mirror. That can get your trigger pull after it is set down to 2 ounces or less. I am making an assumption you have an electronic trigger pull meter?

Last thing, once those parts are ready and the trigger, hammer and nipple all seem to work okay, BEFORE any finish, is to tape the barrel down and go to the range and test fire it for it 2 or 3 times to make sure all works fine, then disassemble and do the finishing/bluing.
John
Old 03-24-2022, 10:05 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #67 (permalink)