[3rd_gear_Ted]

I body & board surfed my whole life in SoCal, never hurt once, finally get to go to Hawaii.
Nearly drowned due to wave power factor X 10, stepped on sea urchin and had to pee on my foot to stop pain, got cut up by the coral reef bad. Lesson learned.

Watched the local kids in monster surf using Mickey D food platters to catch waves, they are all naturals, gene pools matter.